Burgundy

Burgundy blog

BEAUJOLAIS

 

Morgon

Beaujolais is a wine area south of Burgundy, and its northern neighbour is Macon. Here, red wines are made from Gamay grape variety, an early ripening one. I've regrettably not tasted Beaujolais wines since the mid-1990s. While recently posting tasting notes on a wine blog, a blog member strongly encouraged me to try Chateau Thivin in Odenas, Cote de Brouilly. This producer is a specialist in Cote de Brouilly wines and has produced these since the 19th century. I tasted two wines from the 2018 vintage at the beginning of August 2021. Maybe Gamay is not that famous grape variety like Pinot Noir, but here at Chateau Thivin, it shines! It was quite a discovery and proof that Beaujolais can offer wine lovers wines of high quality. I'm looking very much forward to tasting other wines from Thivin, both in the 2018 and 2019 vintage!

Some terrific Beaujolais wines tasted in August 2021!

Cote de Brouilly Les Griottes de Brulhie 2018

It's made from a 5 ha vineyard placed in the middle of the hill of Brouilly. Manual harvest, vinified partly in whole bunches and ageing in large oak foudres for 7-9 months. Almost 100% Gamay in this wine, spiced up with 1-2% Chardonnay to add some finesse. Griottes mean morello cherries, and it's no surprise then that their flavour/aroma is much recognisable in the wine. Delicate nose of some black cherries as well, dried herbs, wild strawberries and redcurrants. Mineral on the palate with discreet acidity, velvety and delicate taste. Tannin keeps itself very much in the background allowing the wine to express its freshness and fruitness. Fine length and silky finish. My first encounter with this producer, and I’m thrilled to have tasted this expressive and well-made wine! 91-92p.

Cote de Brouilly Godefroy 2018

This wine is made from a single plot (28.3 ha) of 80-100 years old vines growing on the lower part of Brouilly slopes. Manual harvest, vinified partly in whole bunches and ageing in large oak foudres for 7-9 months. Almost 100% Gamay in this wine, spiced up with 1-2% Chardonnay to add some finesse. Tasted along Les Griottes de Brulhie, and it’s a wine with some different flavours/aromas. Fatter one with more intensity and concentration. The nose is full of black cherries, crushed stones and rose bush. Mineral on the palate with wild cherries and rose bush flavour, freshness, vibrancy and showing bright acidity. Tannin is almost unnoticeable and letting the wine express itself. It's a complex wine with flowing midpalate and great length. Sublimely lingering finish. Terrific and impressive stuff from Thivin, the producer! 93+p.

Cote de Brouilly "La Chapelle" 2019

This cuvée comes from the vineyard right on the top of Brouilly mountain. Terrific wine, pure and polished, wild strawberries but no cherries, violets, crushed stones and a bit of minerality. Potent and with fine complexity. It kept well until the next day and revealed more acidity. Splendid effort. 92p.

https://www.chateau-thivin.com/en/

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Encouraged by an excellent experience with Chateau Thivin in Cote de Brouilly, I've now turned my attention to Morgon wines from the "hot" winemakers, like Jean Foillard and Jean-Marc Burgaud, Guy Breton, Marcel Lapierre, Louis Claude Desvignes and Mee Godard. Purchased their Morgon Cote de Puy and the single vineyard/luxury bottlings as well, mainly in vintage 2019. I already tasted a basic Morgon 2019 from Jean Foillard, and it was terrific. Have purchased Fleurie 2018 and 2019 from Jean Foillard and Fleurie 2018 from Coudert as well.

I'm looking forward to discovering more about Beaujolais and opt to make comparative tastings!

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Burgundy tasting dinner with Domaine Perrot Minot wines, Bistro Boheme, Copenhagen, 29th January 2020

It was a great display of wines from a very established producer in Morey-Saint-Denis, Domaine Perrot-Minot, at the end of January 2020. Løgismose Vin arranged the tasting at a very cosy restaurant Bistro Boheme which served delicious food. Christophe Perrot-Minot and his wife came to Copenhagen in January 2020 with a range of wines to taste during wine dinner.

Thilde Maarbjerg, the chef sommelier at Løgismose and, before that in the same function at restaurant Kong Hans, was present at the tasting and so kind and generous to add two wines to taste to already announced six wines for the tasting. It was 2016 Morey-St. Denis La Rue de Vergy and 2016 Vosne-Romanée Les Champs Perdrix.

Domaine Perrot-Minot is 100% organic, owns 12.5 ha in all, vinify with up to 60% whole clusters and uses a maximum of 20% new oak for his wines. He practices zero fining and zero filtration in his wines. The style is elegance, finesse, pure expression of Pinot Noir, great style, intensity and sophisticated touch. You really can’t feel the tannin – his wines are so, so perfectly balanced! The wines are sensual!

Wines from Perrot-Minot aren’t cheap – you pay well and more for very high quality.

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Christophe Perrot-Minot

We started with two vintages of Morey-Saint-Denis, La Rue de Vergy, in vintages 2015 and 2016. It's a 1.5 ha stony vineyard with rocks on the top of a famous Grand Cru vineyard, Clos de Tart. It brings minerality, elegance and finesse to the wines.

2015 - mineral, ripe raspberries, subtle, elegant and stylish. A dense structure on the palate and meaty finish. Very attractive and delicious. 93p.

2016 – late harvest, 50% of production lost due to frost. Very similar to 2015, but perhaps with a bit more complexity, depth and intensity. Subtle. 93+p.

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Then we tasted two wines from Vosne Romanée, both in vintage 2016.

Vosne Romanée Vieilles Vignes – more clay here resulting in more concentration, 0.9 ha including two parcels, 45 years old vines. Black cherry fruit, creamy, has great acidity, is stylish, deep, and long. Impressive. 93+p.

Vosne Romanée Les Champs Perdrix – more limestones here, 0.7 ha on the top of La Romanée and La Tache. Very stylish and sophisticated wine, great purity, complexity, decadently fruity and long finish. 94p.

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 The next flight included the following wines:

2014 Chambolle Musigny 1.Cru Les Fuées – vineyard close to Bonnes Mares, vines planted in 1945, only 0.23 ha. Creamy and potent stuff, great complexity, great purity of fruit, sophisticated and with long and persistent finish. Sublime wine. 94+p.

2014 Nuits St. Georges 1.Cru La Richemone Vignes Centenaires (Ultra) – 0.65 ha with vines originating from 1902. Very intense and creamy on the palate, utterly aromatic on the nose, pure spicy cherry and raspberry fruit, impressive depth, complexity and sophisticated touch. Stunning effort. 95+p.

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Then to round the tasting up, we were treated with the following wines:

2012 Griotte Chambertin – situated close to another Grand Cru vineyard, Clos de Beze, 60 years old vines, grapes obtain full ripeness quite early due to vineyard facing south and getting a lot of sun. Immensely expressive wine with remarkable complexity and depth, sublime and with striking elegance and finesse. 96p.

2007 Chambertin Clos de Beze – Christophe Perrot-Minot doesn’t own this vineyard. He buys grapes from his very good friend Pierre Damoy, who owns 5 ha of different Grand Cru vineyards in Chambertin. Christophe Perrot Minot vinifies the purchased grapes in his way. A big, big concentration of dark fruit, but if you expect a hammer blow, then you will be disappointed. You get instead creamy, sophisticated and sublime stuff with stunning elegance and finesse. Utterly expressive wine! 96+p.

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In January 2020, Danish merchant Philipson Wine arranged a similar Burgundy tasting in 2018 (read below), with 2016 in red and 2017 in white. More than 60 wines in all.

I tasted many reds but unfortunately only a few whites as I run short of time.

Henri Boillot:

To many Burgundy experts, Henri Boillot is one of the best white wine producers in the area.

2017 Puligny Montrachet 1. Cru Clos de la Mouchere (Monopole) - very mineral wine with great freshness, acidity and complexity. Intense, concentrated, refined and impressive length. Made from 50+ years old vines. Better than the 2016 version of it. Simply brilliant! 96p.

2017 Corton Charlemagne is an imposing and sophisticated wine that offers you excellent acidity, complexity, and structure. Multi-layered and rich in nuances. Long, long finish. 96+p.

Marquis d'Angerville:

Famous domain in Volnay with its own clone of Pinot Noir.

2016 Volnay Champans 1. Cru – in my honest opinion, this wine is somewhat behind the 2015 version. Not as exuberantly fruity and attractive. However, it’s still a lovely wine with pure fruit expression, pleasing complexity and balance. 92p.

Domaine Frederic Esmonin:

A family-owned estate based in Gevrey Chambertin started first producing estate bottled wines in 1987. Prices are very consumer-friendly here.

2016 Pernand-Vergelesses Les Boutieres – fruity and aromatic, fine structure and nice finish. Very good quality for the money. 89p.

2016 Cote-de-Nuits Villages - more intensity here than in PVLB, nice cherry aroma, smooth and inviting, round, silky tannin and pretty nice fruity finish. 90p.

2016 Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes – an aromatic and tasty mix of raspberries and cherries, a potent vine with splendid complexity depth and length. 91p.

2016 Gevrey Chambertin 1. Cru Estournelles St.Jacques - you feel and taste the elegance and finesse here combined with fine balance, purity, structure and style. To keep for several years. 92p.

2016 Charmes Chambertin – potent and with great complexity and length, intense fruit and long caressing finish. To keep for at least 10+ years. 94p.

Lucien Boillot:

2016 Gevrey Chambertin – really nice and tasty wine, round and attractive. On the light side. 87p.

2016 Gevrey Chambertin 1.Cru Les Cherbaudes - more intensity and concentration here than in Village wine. More complex, deeper and longer finish. 88-89p.

Domaine Henri Felletig:

Grapes come from many parcels situated in Cotes de Nuits.

2016 Bourgogne Rouge - Ok wine, light, charming, elegant and tasty. 86p.

2016 Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes - slightly better on the nose and palate than 2016 Bourgogne Rouge, but still a bit light for my taste and with a short finish. 87p.

2016 Chambolle Musigny Clos Village – similar to CM VV, maybe slightly longer on the finish. 87p.

Hudelot Baillet:

Based in Chambolle Musigny.

2016 Bourgogne Rouge – round, pleasant and tasty wine to be drunk rather quickly. 86p.

2016 Chambolle Musigny – a bit more of everything here than in Bourgogne Rouge, but still slightly four-square wine, in my honest opinion. Very different from an excellent 2015 vintage of the exact wine. 87-88p.

Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux:

This estate has existed for more than 150 years and is close to Vosne Romanée village, where some of the very best Burgundy wines are made. Impressive range of wines.

2016 Bourgogne Rouge Pinot Fin – pure and forward ripe cherry fruit, very nicely composed. Quite nice wine with strong consumer appeal. 88p.

2016 Nuits St.Georges -  more elegance and better structure here, pure style, elegant and well-knitted, maybe a bit more spicy and aromatic wine here. 91p.

2016 Vosne Romanee - strong cherry perfume, refined and with splendid complexity, seductive with silky tannin, outstanding balance and depth. 92p.

2016 Echezeaux – excellent aromatic intensity of cherries and raspberries, excellent complexity and balance, thick texture, fat and creamy. Great prospects. 94-95p.

Domaine Fourrier:

2016 Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes – very expressive and aromatic wine, tasty, deep and creamy on the palate with a smooth finish. Clever winemaking here. 92p.

Domaine de La Vougeraie:

2016 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Terres de Famille – aromatic, round and attractive, on the light side, pleasant and with a soft fruity aftertaste. For early drinking. 87p.

2016 Gevrey Chambertin – more intensity and structure here compared to Bourgogne PN, same aromatic picture, tasty and with a good bite. Fruity finish. 88p.

2016 Gevrey Chambertin 1. Cru Bel Air Eco – very similar to village wine. Slightly more concentrated and with a long finish. 88-89p.

2016 Clos de Vougeot Eco – I have expected more from this Grand Cru. This wine has elegance, finesse and nice complexity. It tasted a bit light and uninspired for the quality, but maybe this is an awkward stage. We hope it’ll improve with time. 91+?p

Domaine Perrot Minot:

Based in Morey St.Denis and run by Christophe Perrot-Minot since 1993. Old vines here - 40-100 years old, max. 20% new oak, careful vinification, no fining and no filtration. Creamy and refined wines with great depth and intensity, which impress a lot.

2016 Morey St. Denis La Rue de Vergy - late harvest, 50% of production lost due to frost. Very similar to 2015, but perhaps with a bit more complexity, depth and intensity. Subtle. 93+p.

2016 Gevrey Chambertin – fabulous stuff, pure expression of Pinot Noir, so stylish and complex, great length and depth. 94p.

2016 Charmes Chambertin is a huge, deep, utterly concentrated wine with stunning purity and complexity finishes with fat fruit and a very classy touch of oak. Awesome stuff. 97p.

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Danish merchant, Philipson Wine, arranged this Burgundy Prestige tasting at the end of November 2018

I recently went to a tasting of 60 Burgundy wines, red and white wines, and found myself enjoying these. A large number of excellent wines and exactly my taste! I haven't tasted wines from the producers listed below, so it was a true thrill. 2015 vintage in red and 2016 in white. Red 2015 is very ripe, exuberantly fruity and delicious vintage. 

I'm not a newbie to Burgundy as I have tasted a reasonable amount of these through all these 34 years my wine writer work has lasted until now (2018). However, I haven't visited this famous wine-producing area yet but hope to do it in 2019 or 2020.

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Pouring delicacies!

Henri Boillot:

To many Burgundy experts, Henri Boillot is one of the best white wine producers in the area. Reds are steadily getting better and better as Henri Boillot's son, Guillaume, focuses on improving the quality.

2015 Volnay Les Chevrets 1. Cru - fresh and energetic, aromatic nose of cherries and red fruit, elegant with finesse, fine complexity, discrete oak and grained tannin. Sublime wine. 92p.

2016 Bourgogne Chardonnay - freshness, charming, tropical fruit, tasty. Enjoyable. 88p.

2016 Meursault - so typical for Chardonnay grape aroma of melted butter, clean and intense, fine acidity and nerve. Complex with great distinction and length. Not bad at all. 92p.

2016 Puligny Montrachet Villages - excellent wine with fine acidity and energy, aromatic and well-knitted palate. Fine intensity and length, 92p.

2016 Puligny Montrachet 1. Cru Clos de la Mouchere (Monopole) - very mineral wine with great freshness, acidity and complexity. Intense, concentrated, refined and impressive length. Made from 50+ years old vines. Simply brilliant! 95+p.

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Domaine Y. Clerget:

Litte family estate in Volnay run today by 28th generation of Clerget family (since 1268). 2015 Volnay showed great intensity, strong backbone, fine depth and fine, elegant style. A gentle dose of oak here just works well together with ripe fruit. Stylish wine. 92p.

Marquis d'Angerville:

Famous domain in Volnay with its clone of Pinot Noir.

2015 Volnay Champans 1. Cru is a vigorous, creamy ripe fruit with great intensity and concentration, delicate, complex, and refined balance. Long meaty finish. Excellent wine. 94p.

Domaine Frederic Esmonin:

A family-owned estate that is based in Gevrey Chambertin. Started first to produce domain bottled wines in 1987. Before that, all production was sold to Jadot and Leroy. I was impressed by the elegance and finesse, underlying intensity and power of tasted wines. Prices are very consumer-friendly.

2015 Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes - Elegant wine, silky fruit and tannin, delicate balance, already quite accessible and pleasure to drink. Catchy elegance here. I will keep it for several years. 91p.

2015 Gevrey Chambertin 1. Cru Les Champonnets - more intensity and acidity here, very cherry, smooth and inviting, round, silky tannin and pretty fine fruity finish. 91-92p.

2015 Gevrey Chambertin 1.Cru Estournelles St.Jacques - even more of everything than in Les Champonnets. You feel and taste the elegance and finesse here combined with virile and energetic cherry fruit. I will keep great for the next 10+ years. 92-93p.

2015 Ruchottes Chambertin - thick and very intense cherry nose, big ripe tannin greatly cooperating with dense and ripe fruit. Great depth, complexity and length. Very long and persistent cherry finish with some touch of almonds. This is just a riveting performance. Long, long life. 95p.

Lucien Boillot:

2015 Gevrey Chambertin - nice fruity nose of ripe cherries and strawberries, charming, but a bit four-square and with a short aftertaste. On the light side. 87p.

2015 Gevrey Chambertin 1. Cru Les Cherbaudes - significantly more intensity and concentration here. More complex, more depth and length. 89-90p.

Domaine Henri Felletig:

Wines are made from many parcels in Cotes de Nuits.

2015 Bourgogne Rouge - Ok wine, light, charming and tasty. 85p.

2015 Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes - far better on the nose and palate than 2015 Bourgogne Rouge, still a bit light for my taste and with a bit short finish. 88p.

2015 Chambolle Musigny 1. Cru Les Carrieres - very similar to Vieilles Vignes, but here you get much more intensity, complexity and length. Very stylish wine. 91p.

Hudelot Baillet:

Based in Chambolle Musigny. Old vines.

2015 Chambolle Musigny - quite nice ripe cherry flavours on the nose and palate, nice complexity. Very fruit-driven and tasty. Smooth and well-balanced. Splendid effort. 92p.

Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux:

This domain has existed for more than 150 years and is based close to Vosne Romanée village, where some of the very best Burgundy wines are made. Impressive range of wines.

2015 Bourgogne Rouge Pinot Fin - lovely dark cherry nose, attractive, well-polished palate with tasty fruit. Quite nice wine with strong consumer appeal. 89p.

2015 Chambolle Musigny - almost identical to Hudelot Baillets Chambolle Musigny, but I have found here slightly more complexity and depth. A gentle dose of oak works just fine with ripe fruit. Very stylish wine. 92p.

2015 Nuits St.Georges - same story here as in Chambolle Musigny, maybe a bit more spicy and aromatic wine here. 92+p.

2015 Vosne Romanee has a strong cherry perfume, refined and splendid complexity, seductive, silky tannin, and great balance and depth. Catches your attention immediately. 93p.

2015 Latricieres Chambertin - thick texture, fat and creamy, too young to enjoy now because of strong tannin and minerality. It needs time to soften. 94-95p.

Domaine Perrot Minot:

Based in Morey St.Denis and run by Christophe Perrot-Minot since 1993. Old vines here - 40-100 years old, a mix of modern touch and careful vinification. Creamy and refined wines with great depth and intensity impressed me a great deal. You pay here well for excellent quality.

2015 Bourgogne Rouge Vieilles Vignes - fruity, smooth, silky, very tasty, accessible and charming. Drinks well. 89p.

2015 Morey St. Denis La Rue de Vergy -  mineral, ripe raspberries, quite elegant and stylish. A dense structure on the palate and meaty finish. Just splendid. 93p.

2015 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes - potent and strong, splendid acidity and complexity. Impressive cherry and raspberry nose and palate, creamy fruit and well-trimmed tannin. Splendid depth and length. Textbook Burgundy. 93+p.

2015 Gevrey Chambertin - as impressive as C-M VV. Same intensity and creaminess combined with silky tannin, perfectly ripe fruit and great length. A winner. 94p.

2015 Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru - a big scaled, deep, utterly concentrated wine, masculine, excellent purity and complexity, finishes with a gentle kiss of oak and fat fruit. Awesome stuff. 96p.

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Latest news

I'll be visiting Bordeaux next month (November) after two years of absence. 12 days in Bordeaux and some incredibly interesting visits have been arranged!

1. A full report on the 2020 vintage tasted from the barrel is now available with approximately 500 tasted samples. (since June 2021).  Please check out chapter "2020 FROM BARREL" in "VINTAGES".

2. A full report on the 2018 vintage in the bottle is available with approximately 500 tasted wines (since April 2021). Please check out chapter "2018 IN BOTTLE" in "VINTAGES".

3. A full report on the 2019 vintage tasted from the barrel (300+ tasted samples) is available (July 2020). Please check out chapter "2019" in "VINTAGES".

The planned addition of a property profile during winter 2021/2022 is Angelus.

The Burgundy blog in the News chapter is a new feature, which includes impressions from tastings/tasting dinners attended since November 2018. It will also include impressions on tasted wines from Beaujolais' best winegrowers. Believe me that Beaujolais Crus are in the spotlight right now because of incredibly ambitious owners/winemakers! I recently came across some terrific Beaujolais wines and will go deeper into exploring this wine area in January and February 2022.

In addition to my website, I also post tasting notes to a well-driven and hugely-scaled website, www.tastingbook.com, where I have 9.300+ followers and 2.600+ TNs by ultimo October 2021.