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Burgundy blog

 

Burgundy tasting dinner with Domaine Perrot Minot wines, Bistro Boheme, Copenhagen, 29th January 2020

It was a great display of wines from a very established producer in Morey-Saint-Denis, Domaine Perrot-Minot at the end of January 2020. Løgismose Vin arranged the tasting at very cosy restaurant Bistro Boheme which served very tasty food. Christophe Perrot-Minot and his wife came to Copenhagen in January 2020 with a range of wines to taste during wine dinner.

Thilde Maarbjerg, the chef sommelier at Løgismose and before that in the same function at restaurant Kong Hans, was present at the tasting and so kind and generous to add two wines to taste to already announced 6 wines for the tasting. It was 2016 Morey-St. Denis La Rue de Vergy and 2016 Vosne-Romanée Les Champs Perdrix.

Domaine Perrot-Minot is 100% organic, owns 12.5 ha in all, vinify with up to 60% whole clusters and uses a maximum 20% new oak for his wines. He practices zero fining and zero filtration in his wines. The style is elegance, finesse, pure expression of Pinot Noir, great style, intensity and sophisticated touch. You really can’t feel the tannin – his wines are so, so perfectly balanced! The wines are sensual!

Wines from Perrot-Minot aren’t cheap – you pay well and more for very high quality.

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Christophe Perrot-Minot

We started with two vintages of Morey-Saint-Denis, La Rue de Vergy, in vintages 2015 and 2016. It's a 1.5 ha stony vineyard with rocks on the top of a famous Grand Cru vineyard, Clos de Tart. Gives minerality, elegance and finesse to the wines.

2015 - mineral, ripe raspberries, subtle, elegant and stylish. A dense structure on the palate and meaty finish. Very attractive and delicious. 93p.

2016 – late harvest, 50% of production lost due to frost. Very similar to 2015, but perhaps with a bit more complexity, depth and intensity. Subtle. 93+p.

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Then we tasted two wines from Vosne Romanée, both in vintage 2016.

Vosne Romanée Vieilles Vignes – more clay here resulting in more concentration, 0.9 ha including two parcels, 45 years old vines. Black cherry fruit, creamy, great acidity, stylish, deep and with a long finish. Impressive. 93+p.

Vosne Romanée Les Champs Perdrix – more limestones here, 0.7 ha on the top of La Romanée and La Tache. Very stylish and sophisticated wine, great purity, complexity, decadently fruity and long finish. 94p.

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 Next flight included the following wines:

2014 Chambolle Musigny 1.Cru Les Fuées – vineyard close to Bonnes Mares, vines planted in 1945, only 0.23 ha. Creamy and potent stuff, great complexity, great purity of fruit, sophisticated and with long and persistent finish. Sublime wine. 94+p.

2014 Nuits St. Georges 1.Cru La Richemone Vignes Centenaires (Ultra) – 0.65 ha with vines originating from 1902. Very intense and very creamy on the palate, utterly aromatic on the nose, pure spicy cherry and raspberry fruit, impressive depth, complexity and sophisticated touch. Stunning effort. 95+p.

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Then to round the tasting up, we were treated with the following wines:

2012 Griotte Chambertin – situated close to another Grand Cru vineyard, Clos de Beze, 60 years old vines, grapes obtain full ripeness quite early due to vineyard facing south and getting a lot of sun. Immensely expressive wine with awesome complexity and depth, sublime and with striking elegance and finesse. 96p.

2007 Chambertin Clos de Beze – Christophe Perrot-Minot doesn’t own this vineyard. He buys grapes from his very good friend Pierre Damoy, who owns whole 5 ha of different Grand Cru vineyards in Chambertin. Christophe Perrot Minot vinifies the purchased grapes in his way. A big, big concentration of dark fruit but if you expect a hammer blow, then you will be disappointed. You get instead creamy, sophisticated and sublime stuff with stunning elegance and finesse. Utterly expressive wine! 96+p.

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In January 2020, Danish merchant, Philipson Wine, arranged similar Burgundy tasting to the one in 2018 (read below), this time with 2016 in red and 2017 in white. More than 60 wines in all.

I tasted many reds but unfortunately only a few whites as I run short of time.

Henri Boillot:

To many Burgundy experts, Henri Boillot is one of the best white wine producers in the area.

2017 Puligny Montrachet 1.Cru Clos de la Mouchere (Monopole) - very mineral wine with great freshness, acidity and complexity. Intense, concentrated, refined and impressive length. Made from 50+ years old vines. Better than the 2016 version of it. Simply brilliant! 96p.

2017 Corton Charlemagne - very impressive and sophisticated wine, which offers you excellent acidity, complexity and structure. Multi-layered and rich in nuances. Long, long finish. 96+p.

Marquis d'Angerville:

Famous domain in Volnay with its own clone of Pinot Noir.

2016 Volnay Champans 1.Cru – in my honest opinion this wine is somewhat behind 2015 version of it. Not as exuberantly fruity and attractive. However, it’s still a splendid wine with pure fruit expression, fine complexity and balance. 92p.

Domaine Frederic Esmonin:

A family-owned estate which is based in Gevrey Chambertin. Started first to produce estate bottled wines in 1987. Prices are very consumer-friendly here.

2016 Pernand-Vergelesses Les Boutieres – fruity and aromatic, fine structure and nice finish. Very good quality for the money. 89p.

2016 Cote-de-Nuits Villages - more intensity here than in PVLB, nice cherry aroma, smooth and inviting, round silky tannin and pretty nice fruity finish. 90p.

2016 Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes – an aromatic and tasty mix of raspberries and cherries, a potent vine with splendid complexity depth and length. 91p.

2016 Gevrey Chambertin 1.Cru Estournelles St.Jacques - you feel and taste the elegance and finesse here combined with fine balance, purity, structure and style. To keep for several years. 92p.

2016 Charmes Chambertin – potent and with great complexity and length, intense fruit and long caressing finish. To keep for at least 10+ years. 94p.

Lucien Boillot:

2016 Gevrey Chambertin – really nice and tasty wine, round and attractive. On the light side. 87p.

2016 Gevrey Chambertin 1.Cru Les Cherbaudes - more intensity and concentration here than in Village wine. More complex, deeper and longer finish. 88-89p.

Domaine Henri Felletig:

Wines are made from many parcels situated in Cotes de Nuits.

2016 Bourgogne Rouge - Ok wine, light, charming, elegant and tasty. 86p.

2016 Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes - slightly better on the nose and palate than 2016 Bourgogne Rouge, but still a bit light for my taste and with a bit short finish. 87p.

2016 Chambolle Musigny Clos Village – similar to CM VV, maybe a little bit longer on the finish. 87p.

Hudelot Baillet:

Based in Chambolle Musigny.

2016 Bourgogne Rouge – round, pleasant and tasty wine to be drunk rather quickly. 86p.

2016 Chambolle Musigny – a bit more of everything here than in Bourgogne Rouge, still slightly four-square wine in my honest opinion. Very different from an excellent 2015 vintage of the same wine. 87-88p.

Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux:

This estate has existed in more than 150 years and is based close to Vosne Romanée village, where some of very best Burgundy wines are made. Impressive range of wines.

2016 Bourgogne Rouge Pinot Fin – pure and forward ripe cherry fruit, very nicely composed. Quite nice wine with strong consumer appeal. 88p.

2016 Nuits St.Georges -  more elegance and better structure here, pure style, elegant and well-knitted, maybe a bit more spicy and perfumed wine here. 91p.

2016 Vosne Romanee - strong cherry perfume, refined and with splendid complexity, seductive with silky tannin, great balance and depth. 92p.

2016 Echezeaux – excellent aromatic intensity of cherries and raspberries, excellent complexity and balance, thick texture, fat and creamy. Great future prospects. 94-95p.

Domaine Fourrier:

2016 Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes – very expressive and aromatic wine, tasty, deep and creamy on the palate with a smooth finish. Very fine winemaking here.92p.

Domaine de La Vougeraie:

2016 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Terres de Famille – aromatic, round and attractive, on the light side, pleasant and with a soft fruity aftertaste. For early drinking. 87p.

2016 Gevrey Chambertin – more intensity and structure here compared to Bourgogne PN, same aromatic picture, tasty and with a good bite. Fruity finish. 88p.

2016 Gevrey Chambertin 1.Cru Bel Air Eco – very similar to village wine. Slightly more concentrated and with a long finish. 88-89p.

2016 Clos de Vougeot Eco – I have expected more from this Grand Cru. This wine has elegance, finesse and nice complexity. It tasted a bit light and uninspired for the quality, but maybe this is an awkward stage. We hope it’ll improve with time. 91+?p

Domaine Perrot Minot:

Based in Morey St.Denis and run by Christophe Perrot-Minot since 1993. Old vines here - 40-100 years old, max. 20% new oak, careful vinification, no fining and no filtration. Creamy and refined wines with great depth and intensity which impress a lot.

2016 Morey St. Denis La Rue de Vergy - late harvest, 50% of production lost due to frost. Very similar to 2015, but perhaps with a bit more complexity, depth and intensity. Subtle. 93+p.

2016 Gevrey Chambertin – fabulous stuff, pure expression of Pinot Noir, so stylish and complex, great length and depth. 94p.

2016 Charmes Chambertin - huge, deep, utterly concentrated wine, with stunning purity and complexity, which finishes with fat fruit and very classy touch of oak. Awesome stuff. 97p.

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Danish merchant, Philipson Wine, arranged this Burgundy Prestige tasting at the end of November 2018

I recently went to a tasting of 60 Burgundy wines, red and white wines, and found myself enjoying these. A large number of excellent wines and exactly my taste! I haven't tasted wines from the producers listed below, so it was a true thrill. 2015 vintage in red and 2016 in white. Red 2015 is very ripe, exuberantly fruity and delicious vintage. 

I'm not a newbie to Burgundy as I have tasted a reasonable amount of these through all these 34 years my wine writer work has lasted until now (2018). However, I haven't visited this famous wine-producing area yet but hope to do it in 2019 or 2020.

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Pouring delicacies!

Henri Boillot:

To many Burgundy experts, Henri Boillot is one of the best white wine producers in the area. Reds are steadily getting better and better as Henri Boillot's son, Guillaume, focuses a lot of improving the quality.

2015 Volnay Les Chevrets 1.Cru - fresh and energetic, aromatic nose of cherries and red fruit, elegant with finesse, fine complexity, discrete oak and grained tannin. Sublime wine. 92p.

2016 Bourgogne Chardonnay - freshness, charming, tropical fruit, tasty. Enjoyable. 88p.

2016 Meursault - so typical for Chardonnay grape aroma of melted butter, clean and intense, fine acidity and nerve. Complex with great distinction and length. Not bad at all. 92p.

2016 Puligny Montrachet Villages - really fine wine with fine acidity and energy, aromatic and well-knitted on the palate. Fine intensity and length, 92p.

2016 Puligny Montrachet 1.Cru Clos de la Mouchere (Monopole) - very mineral wine with great freshness, acidity and complexity. Intense, concentrated, refined and impressive length. Made from 50+ years old vines. Simply brilliant! 95+p.

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Domaine Y. Clerget:

Litte family estate in Volnay run today by 28th generation of Clerget family (since 1268). 2015 Volnay showed great intensity, strong backbone, fine depth and fine elegant style. A gentle dose of oak here just works well together with ripe fruit. Stylish wine. 92p.

Marquis d'Angerville:

Famous domain in Volnay with its own clone of Pinot Noir.

2015 Volnay Champans 1.Cru - strong, creamy ripe fruit, great intensity and concentration, refined, complex and with fine balance. Long meaty finish. Excellent wine. 94p.

Domaine Frederic Esmonin:

A family-owned estate which is based in Gevrey Chambertin. Started first to produce domain bottled wines in 1987. Before that, all production was sold to Jadot and Leroy. I was impressed by elegance and finesse, underlying intensity and power of tasted wines. Prices are very consumer-friendly.

2015 Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes - Elegant wine, silky fruit and tannin, fine balance, already quite accessible and pleasure to drink. Catchy elegance here. Will keep for several years. 91p.

2015 Gevrey Chambertin 1.Cru Les Champonnets - more intensity and acidity here, very cherry, smooth and inviting, round silky tannin and pretty fine fruity finish. 91-92p.

2015 Gevrey Chambertin 1.Cru Estournelles St.Jacques - even more of everything than in Les Champonnets. You feel and taste the elegance and finesse here combined with virile and energetic cherry fruit. Will keep greatly for the next 10+ years. 92-93p.

2015 Ruchottes Chambertin - thick and very intense cherry nose, big ripe tannin greatly cooperating with dense and ripe fruit. Great depth, complexity and length. Very long and persistent cherry finish with some touch of almonds. This is just a riveting performance. Long, long life. 95p.

Lucien Boillot:

2015 Gevrey Chambertin - nice fruity nose of ripe cherries and strawberries, charming, but a bit four-square and with a short aftertaste. On the light side. 87p.

2015 Gevrey Chambertin 1. Cru Les Cherbaudes - significantly more intensity and concentration here. More complex, more depth and length. 89-90p.

Domaine Henri Felletig:

Wines are made from many parcels in Cotes de Nuits.

2015 Bourgogne Rouge - Ok wine, light, charming and tasty. 85p.

2015 Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes - far better on the nose and palate than 2015 Bourgogne Rouge, still a bit light for my taste and with a bit short finish. 88p.

2015 Chambolle Musigny 1.Cru Les Carrieres - very similar to Vieilles Vignes, but here you get much more intensity, complexity and length. Very stylish wine. 91p.

Hudelot Baillet:

Based in Chambolle Musigny. Old vines.

2015 Chambolle Musigny - quite nice ripe cherry flavours on the nose and palate, nice complexity as well. Very fruit-driven and tasty. Smooth and well-balanced. Splendid effort. 92p.

Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux:

This domain has existed in more than 150 years and is based close to Vosne Romanée village, where some of very best Burgundy wines are made. Impressive range of wines.

2015 Bourgogne Rouge Pinot Fin - nice dark cherry nose, attractive, well polished on the palate with tasty fruit. Quite nice wine with strong consumer appeal. 89p.

2015 Chambolle Musigny - almost identical to Hudelot Baillets Chambolle Musigny, but I have found here slightly more complexity and depth. A gentle dose of oak works just fine with ripe fruit. Very stylish wine. 92p.

2015 Nuits St.Georges - same story here as in Chambolle Musigny, maybe a bit more spicy and perfumed wine here. 92+p.

2015 Vosne Romanee - strong cherry perfume, refined and with splendid complexity, seductive with silky tannin, great balance and depth. Catches immediately your attention. 93p.

2015 Latricieres Chambertin - thick texture, fat and creamy, too young to enjoy now because of strong tannin and minerality. Needs time to soften. 94-95p.

Domaine Perrot Minot:

Based in Morey St.Denis and run by Christophe Perrot-Minot since 1993. Old vines here - 40-100 years old, a mix of modern touch and careful vinification. Creamy and refined wines with great depth and intensity which impressed me a great deal. You pay here well for excellent quality.

2015 Bourgogne Rouge Vieilles Vignes - fruity, smooth, silky, very tasty, accessible and charming. Drinks well. 89p.

2015 Morey St. Denis La Rue de Vergy -  mineral, ripe raspberries, quite elegant and stylish. A dense structure on the palate and meaty finish. Just splendid. 93p.

2015 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes - potent and strong, splendid acidity and complexity. Impressive cherry and raspberry nose and palate, creamy fruit and well-trimmed tannin. Splendid depth and length. Textbook Burgundy. 93+p.

2015 Gevrey Chambertin - as impressive as C-M VV. Same intensity and creaminess combined with silky tannin, perfectly ripe fruit and great length. A winner. 94p.

2015 Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru - a big scaled, deep, utterly concentrated wine, masculine, excellent purity and complexity, finishes with a gentle kiss of oak and fat fruit. Awesome stuff. 96p.

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My top ten wines tasted in 2019

1. Lafite Rothschild 2016                                  100p

2. Cheval Blanc 2000                                         100p

3. Cheval Blanc 2009                                          99p

4. Lafleur 2016                                                   99p

5. Lafleur 2015                                                   98p

6. Pichon Baron 2010                                          98p

7. Pichon Comtesse 2017                                    97p

8. Beychevelle 1949                                            97p

9. Leoville Barton 2016                                       96p

10. Les Carmes Haut Brion 1953                         96p