A couple of wine presses with filtering mats in the cellar of Beauséjour. October 2025
Between October 20th and 23rd, 2025, I spent some utterly exciting days in Bordeaux catching up on several 2024 wines I didn't manage to taste in April 2025 and revisiting a couple of properties I visited last time before Covid-19. I mainly tasted wines from 2022 and 2023 vintages, but I was also treated to some excellent verticals.
I am thrilled to announce that the 2023 vintage has lived up to its outstanding promise from barrel to bottle. The wines I tasted convinced me that this vintage truly feels magical on both banks, with a slight edge on the Right Bank. This vintage is marked by a delightful blend of multi-scented fruit, elegantly enveloped in velvety tannins, alongside ideal acidity that maintains balance and invites you to come back and taste them again! François Mitjaville, from the renowned estate Tertre Roteboeuf, told me during my visit to the property, "The 2022 vintage is on everyone's lips now, but the 2023 vintage will surpass it in the long run."
Winemakers are very pleased with the result of the 2025 harvest. There were no significant diseases during the growing season. However, the very hot, rainless summer produced tiny grapes, resulting in a yield of about half the normal amount. When I inquired about the style of the wines, the winemakers at the properties I visited explained to me, "It’s too early to determine, but we think it will be somewhere between 2022 and 2023. They said that we’ll know more once the malolactic fermentation is complete." Speaking of malolactic fermentation, it has started very quickly this year and is currently underway at Bordeaux châteaux as of late October 2025.
-----
Monday, the 20th of October
Carbonnieux
This property from Pessac-Léognan is making splendid wines in both red and white.
2023 red – 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. This wine has a fragrant nose with ripe blackcurrants and raspberries. It is tender, well-structured, and juicy, with a fine midpalate. The crunchy fruit flavor is well balanced by bright acidity, and the aftertaste is long. Splendid effort. 94p.
2022 red - 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. This wine has similar flavors, structure, and complexity as the 2023 version, but is tighter and more concentrated. It will probably have a longer life. It’s a splendid wine as well. 94-95p.
2023 white – 68% Sauvignon Blanc + 32% Sémillon. It displays an intense nose of acacia flower, grapefruit, and citrus, has fine acidity, and is fresh, vibrant, and tense. Complex on the palate with freshness and crisp fruit. Lemony aftertaste. Superb. 94-95p.
2022 white – 60% Sauvignon Blanc + 40% Sémillon. Elegant nose of pineapple and white peaches, fine acidity, juicy and crisp. Delightfully tasty on the palate with fine acidity and complexity. Lingering aftertaste. 94p.
Up: View of the chateau. Below: Wines I tasted.
Olivier
Enjoyable visit to this beautifully situated property, with its medieval castle and moats. It covers a huge 230 ha and is protected by the nearby forest. I had a great walk around the property. Here, the wines are of very good quality and rank below the top wines of the Pessac-Leognan district.
2023 red – 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot. 13.8% alcohol. It displays aromatic blackcurrants on the nose and is sappy on the palate with fine complexity, silky fruit, discreet acidity, and a delicate aftertaste. Pretty wine. 92p.
2022 red – 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 6% Petit Verdot. It put on weight and concentration after ageing in barrels. It’s denser with a stronger structure and a longer finish. 92+p.
2021 red – 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot. 13.1% alcohol. A pleasant wine with tasty fruit and soft tannin. To be consumed early in its life. 88p.
2023 white – 80 % Sauvignon Blanc + 20% Sémillon. It is quite expressive on the nose and palate, with grapefruit and lemongrass, crisp fruit, well-integrated acidity, and complexity. Lemony aftertaste. Fine. 92-93p.
2022 white - 80% Sauvignon Blanc + 20% Sémillon. Intense on the nose and palate, acacia flower, white peaches, and lemongrass, crisp fruit, fine acidity, and complex. Persistent finish. Well-made wine. 92p.
2021 white – it’s lighter than the 2023 and 2022 versions. More linear and softer with some elegance. 88p.
Upper picture: A beautiful view of the chateau. Below left: Reds to taste. Below right: Whites to taste.
Figeac
It was a terrific visit. The technical director of the property, Romain Jean-Pierre, presented to me the following wines: 2023 Château La Fleur Pourret, 2023 Château de Millery (both are St.-Émilion Grand Cru), 2023 Petit Figeac, 2023 Château Figeac, and 2022 Château Figeac.
2023 La Fleur Pourret – 70% Merlot + 30% Cabernet Franc, 13.5% alcohol. Very aromatic on the nose with notes of raspberries and violets. Subtle on the palate with delicate fruit, velvety tannin, and discreet acidity. Well-balanced, with a fresh, fruity aftertaste. Lovely stuff. 92-93p.
2023 de Millery – 95% Merlot + 5% Cabernet Franc, 14% alcohol. This property has been owned by the Manoncourt family since 1942 and produces wine from less than one hectare of vines. It’s a lovely nose of blueberries and blackberries, subtle and well-knit palate with elegance, finesse, and velvety tannins. Lingering finish. Pretty and sensual effort. 93+p.
2023 Petit Figeac – 45% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s the second wine of Figeac, and it is a beautifully scented, subtle, attractive, and tasty creation. There is a sufficient amount of creamy morello cherries and wild raspberries, silky tannin, and discreet acidity. It has a fine complexity, is well-balanced, and possesses a lingering finish. Brilliant effort, it is! 93p.
2023 Figeac - 42% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc, and 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13.5% alcohol. Now bottled and so beautiful on the nose and palate! The wine has a fabulous aroma of raspberries, fragrant violets, and iris. It is subtle and sublime on the palate, with great vibrancy and structure, an excellent mid-palate, silky texture, and an exquisitely long aftertaste. This is an outstanding effort, on the level with the 2022 vintage or better! It can become the best Figeac produced in recent years. 99-100p.
2022 Figeac – 35% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Franc, and 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% alcohol. This wine displays a fantastic aroma of raspberries and redcurrants with mineral undertones. It is vibrant, sophisticated, and rich, with a remarkably long mid-palate, creaminess, and finely grained tannins and a long-lasting finish. This is one of the best wines ever produced here. 99p.
According to Jean-Pierre Romain, he thinks the 2025 vintage will be between 2022 and 2023, with flavors from 2022 and tannins from 2023.
Couvent de Jacobins
The office and cellars are located in the middle of the Saint-Emilion village. It was a very informative visit, and I tasted vintages 2020, 2015, 1995, and 1971. The property’s manager since 1996, Denis Pomarede, showed some interesting vinification equipment and the underground cellar. Petit Verdot was introduced in the blend in 2014. It’s classified as Grand Cru Classe, and the quality is really good. However, I didn’t taste the recent vintages, so maybe the quality has improved further. A luxury cuvée called Calicem (from old Merlot vines) is made here, but I haven’t tasted it.
2020 - 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot, 14.5% alcohol. It is similar to the 2015 version but has a spicier fruit flavor on the palate. Overall, this wine resembles its five-year-older counterpart quite a bit, but it is understandably a bit fresher. 93p.
2015 – 85% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot, 14.5% alcohol. Fine aroma of blueberries and wild raspberries on the nose, and well-structured on the palate with a solid backbone. It’s well-balanced with lush berries and velvety tannins. Lingering aftertaste. Pretty effort indeed. 93p.
1995 – it’s very raspberry on the nose with earthy tones. Nicely knit on the palate with spicy berries, soft tannins, and good length. It’s ready for consumption. 89p.
1971 – it is a mature wine with rich flavors of cherries and raspberries. It displays elegance, finesse, silkiness, and balance. This wine is delightful to drink now. 91p.
Left: A vat for two parcels to vinify separately. Right: Petit Verdot is vinified in these small barrels. Below: Wines I tasted.
Corbin
It’s no secret that this property produces some of Saint-Emilion’s most elegant and finesse-clad wines. They are never overblown, overextracted, or unripe. For the money, they are stellar wines!
I tasted three vintages: 2024, 2023, and 2022.
2024 Corbin - still aging in barrel. 13.25% alcohol. Fragrant morello cherries and violets with a hint of cocoa on the nose. It’s a fresh and delicate wine with finesse, nice density, discreet acidity, silky tannins, and velvety texture on the palate. Lingering finish. It’s a fine effort for the vintage. 93p.
2023 Corbin - now in bottle. 90% Merlot + 10% Cabernet Franc. 13.4% alcohol. This is a sublime wine with pure finesse and elegance, great balance, and a velvety texture. It has a broad palette of aromas, especially black cherries, violets, and iris. The perfect acidity, great midpalate, vibrancy, and "invisible" tannin make this wine an utterly seductive "catch." All promises from the barrel came true. As spectacular as 2022! 95-96p.
2022 Corbin - the entire harvest was allocated to Grand Vin. The blend is 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc. 14% alcohol. It has a captivating fragrance of creamy black cherries, blueberries, and violets; fine tannins; a velvety texture; a great midpalate; and is strikingly elegant, with finesse and a sophisticated touch. This wine is one of Anabelle Cruse Bardinet's finest efforts to date! 96p.
Tuesday, the 21st of October
Sociando Mallet
I was welcomed by Jeanne Mespoulede, the newly appointed sales manager, who prepared tastings of the vintages 2024, 2023, 2022, 2021, and 2020. This property is located approximately 5 km north of Saint-Estèphe and is in the appellation Haut-Médoc. The style of wine here is similar to that from Saint-Estèphe, but in recent vintages, it has become more elegant and polished. This estate's wines can, from time to time, rival those of several Cru Classés on the Left Bank.
2024 – 57% Cabernet Sauvignon and 43% Merlot, 13% alcohol. Spicy blackcurrants on the nose, sappy and well-knit on the palate. Lightly textured. It’s a gentle version of the wine from this property with subtlety and delicate tannins. It will be a perfect restaurant wine to enjoy after bottling. 91p.
2023 – 50% Merlot, 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% Cabernet Franc, 14% alcohol. It catches your attention from the very beginning. There is plenty of aromatic dark berries on the nose, and the palate is well-covered with creamy fruit, velvety tannins, and bright acidity. It’s a vibrant wine with great balance and grace. Remarkable stuff! 94-95p.
2022 – 63% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Cabernet Franc, 14% alcohol, 22 hl/ha. On the nose, there are strong aromas of black cherries and wild raspberries. The palate is lush, displaying a robust structure and concentrated flavors, with a persistent finish that carries a noticeable dryness. This wine needs considerable time to integrate fully. It’s a splendid effort. 94p.
2021 - 54% Merlot, 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Cabernet Franc, 13% alcohol. This is a nicely made wine, given the problems with weather conditions during the growing season. Yes, it’s a bit thin, but nicely built with good balance, soft tannins, and tasty fruit. This wine can be enjoyed quite early in its life. 90p.
2020 - 53% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2% Cabernet Franc, 14% alcohol. This is a sublimely aromatic wine with dark berries and mint, creamy on the palate, more elegant than usual, great precision and focus, excellent structure, depth, and complexity. The aftertaste is long and exciting. It’s a cracker effort. 95p.
Haut Marbuzet
I had a wonderful time visiting this property and having a vertical of seven vintages: 2024, 2023, 2022, 2021, 2020, 2019, and 2018. Henri Duboscq, the owner, is now 82 years old and still in great shape. He attended the tasting and entertained us with several jokes and funny stories in between wines. The wines themselves are truly impressive, with a unique flavor that makes them very seductive. Haut Marbuzet is, in my opinion, one of the very best Cru Bourgeois in Bordeaux, an excellent value for money, and its quality is equal to that of several classified properties.
2024 – I have found it better than expected. Despite the weather caprices during the growing season, the result is a wine with a fresh attitude, pretty good density, ripe fruit (spicy raspberries), sappiness, silky tannins, and discreet acidity. It has a persistent finish that leaves you happy. 92p.
2023 – it has a beautifully fragrant aroma of black cherries that captivates you from the start. On the palate, it displays silky dark berries and velvety tannins, supported by excellent acidity. There is a great complexity, finesse, structure, crystalline texture, and excellent midpalate. The finish is sublimely long, leaving you feeling extremely satisfied with the wine. As sensual as 2022. 95+p.
2022 - 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. 13.5% alcohol. It follows the vintage's trend, being quite powerful and intense. At the same time, it maintains its unique style, sophisticated touch, seamless structure, balance, and vibrancy. Marvellous wine! 95+p.
2021 – it shows a fragrant nose of morello cherries, a juicy, well-knit palate with nice structure, length, and a lingering finish. This vintage’s weather challenges prevented the winemaker from producing more than a respectable wine. 91p.
2020 – this is a pure seduction! Creamy and lush black cherries and blueberries, taking a bath in milk chocolate and cocoa powder, seamless structure, excellent midpalate, silky berries, velvety tannins that hide effortlessly behind walls of fruit, and discreet acidity. This is a heavenly delight! 95-96p.
2019 – this wine has a captivating nose of black cherries and raspberries, wrapped in dark chocolate and truffle notes. On the palate, it displays a great complexity, sophisticated touch, finesse, and crystalline tannins that embrace silky berries. The texture is like liquid cashmere! You can’t resist such a wine, can you?! 95p.
2018 – 55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Cabernet Franc, 14.5% alcohol. It bursts on the nose with intense, wild cherries, added cocoa, and chocolate notes. There’s a lovely complexity, vibrancy, velvety texture, splendid midpalate, and supporting acidity that keeps everything balanced. This wine provides a lot of pleasure with its sensual appearance. Pure delight. 94-95p.
Montrose
I enjoyed my visit and tasted some great wines.
2022 Tronquoy - 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, and 6% Petit Verdot. 14.5% alcohol. Spicy black fruit, mineral, chewy, well-defined, finely structured. Solid backbone. Meaty aftertaste with earthy tones. 91-92p.
2022 Dame de Montrose - 71% Merlot, 23% C. Sauvignon, 5% P. Verdot, and 1% C. Franc. 14.5% alcohol. Great nose of black cherries, violets, and notes of cocoa powder. Mineral, creamy fruit with fine supporting tannin, and complex on the palate. Persistent aftertaste. Terrific second wine of Montrose. 93-94p.
2022 Montrose - 66% C. Sauvignon, 6% C. Franc, 25% Merlot, and 1% P. Verdot. 14.5% alcohol. Intense blackcurrant and cherry on the nose, with notes of leather and tobacco; creamy, powerful, and thick texture on the palate. Bright acidity. Tight and concentrated. Vibrant. Great complexity and fine mid-palate. Sophisticated. Exceptional effort. 98-99p.
2015 Tronquoy Lalande - 55% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. Aromatic blackcurrants and morello cherries on the nose, juicy and lush on the palate, fine structure and length. Lingering finish. Adorable effort. 91p.
2015 Dame de Montrose – 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot. Plenty of morello cherries on the nose, voluptuous on the palate with fine complexity, balance, and structure, Lingering finish. Fine second wine. 92p.
2015 Montrose - 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc. 13,8% alcohol. Intense, spicy blackcurrants on the nose, with a big concentration of everything. It has great depth and length, as well as fabulous complexity and richness. It seems to be in a deep sleep now, with the tannins at the forefront. A long-time runner of excellent quality. 97p.
2022 Blanc de Tronquoy – 70% Semillon + 30% Sauvignon Blanc. Acacia flower, pineapple, and lemongrass on the nose. Mineral and crisp on the palate, with fresh acidity and a lemony finish. Admirable wine. 91-92p.
Tour des Termes
I have tasted wine from this property every year during primeur since 2018. It changed hands in 2023, and the new owner (the O’Connor family from Ireland) plans to modernize the property and build a new vinification cellar to improve quality further. At the moment, it is a medium-class wine for the district. There are plans to release a white Tour des Termes in 2028, a blend of Albariño (a native Portuguese grape variety), Semillon, and Sauvignon Blanc. I tasted five vintages with the property's manager, Julien Brustis.
2023 – 60% Merlot + 40% Cabernet Sauvignon. Flowery on the nose with violets, subtle on the palate with creamy cherries, well supported by bright acidity. Velvety tannins, fine complexity, and midpalate. Lingering aftertaste. This wine has improved considerably since barrel tasting. 93p.
2021 - Light, ripe blackberries and redcurrants, mineral, soft tannin, firm aftertaste. Nice effort considering the weather challenges. 88p.
2020 – black cherries on the nose with notes of black winter truffles and violets, sweet fruit, velvety tannin on the palate, and bright acidity. Complex, well-knit, with a persistent finish. Fine. 92p
2018 – 65% Merlot, 35% Cabernet, and 5% Petit Verdot. Intense nose of black cherries with a dash of dark chocolate and mint. It's powerful and vibrant on the palate, with creamy fruit and fat tannins; juicy, terroir-driven, complex, and long-finish. Splendid effort! 92-93p.
2014 – it has a fine fruity nose with notes of black cherries and blackcurrants. This is a nice, well-proportioned wine with mature flavors and good acidity. Tasty fruit and well-trimmed tannins. Ready to drink. 90p.
Cos d'Estournel
It was nice to return to the property after not visiting it during primeurs in April 2025. Dominique Arangoïts, the technical director of Cos d'Estournel, prepared the following wines for tasting:
2023 G d'Estournel - 64% Merlot, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. It's a subtle wine with creamy blackberries and raspberries, nice acidity, and a well-structured palate. Sleek aftertaste. Attractive stuff. 91p.
2023 Pagodes de Cos - 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. 13% alcohol. It displays blackcurrant, violet, tobacco, and minty notes, and is juicy and well-balanced on the palate. Persistent aftertaste. Fine second wine from Cos d'Estournel. 92-93p.
2023 Cos d'Estournel - 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot. 12.9% alcohol. It has intense aromas with crushed cherries, mint, and tobacco. Delicate yet intense, vibrant, complex, and sophisticated on the palate with a strong backbone. Long and persistent finish. Outstanding effort. 98+p.
2022 G d'Estournel - 67% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3.6% Cabernet Franc and 0.4% Petit Verdot. Powerful wine with a strong backbone. Spicy blackberries and raspberries, tobacco, slight dryness, sappy, and a meaty finish. 91p.
2022 Pagodes de Cos - 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 49% Merlot, and 1% Cabernet Franc. Intense blackcurrants, violets, tobacco, and leather, juicy, well-assorted on the palate, and vibrant. Complex. Long aftertaste. Splendid effort for the vintage. 93-94p.
2022 Cos d'Estournel - 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, 14.04% alcohol. Tight, intense, violets and crushed cherries/blackcurrants, minty, mineral, yogurt, strong backbone, vibrant, utterly complex, and sophisticated. Long, persistent finish that is slightly dry. Upper class! 98p.
2023 Pagodes de Cos white - 80% Sauvignon Blanc + 20% Sémillon. It's very pineapple and lemony on the nose. Layered and well-balanced on the palate. The acidity is well-present, keeping everything in perfect shape. It’s a lovely second wine of white Cos d'Estournel. 93p.
2023 Cos d'Estournel white - 70% Sauvignon Blanc + 30 % Sémillon. It is intense on the nose, with citrus, lemongrass, and pineapple notes. The palate offers crispiness, great acidity, and a rich, energetic profile with a sophisticated touch. It finishes long and lemony. Terrific stuff. 95p.
2022 Pagodes de Cos white - 57% S. Blanc + 43% Semillon. Very grapefruity with notes of lemongrass and pear, crisp, bright acidity, and refreshing lemony finish. Fine second wine of white Cos d'Estournel. 92-93p.
2022 Cos d'Estournel white - 74% S. Blanc + 26% Sémillon. Intense on the nose with notes of grapefruit and lemongrass. Crisp, fine acidity, energetic, persistent lemony finish. Splendid effort. 94p.
Additionally, I tasted Cos Labory in two vintages.
2023 - 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 4% Petit Verdot. 13% alcohol. It's the first vintage for the new owners (Cos d'Estournel), who acquired it in March 2023. Nice cherry nose. It is sleek, well-balanced, and well-knit on the palate, with a fine length. Tender aftertaste. 92-93p.
2022 - 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. 14.46% alcohol. The 2022 vintage is the last made by the previous owner, Bernard Audoy. Leather and tobacco on the nose. Sappy, complex, creamy blackcurrants and grainy tannin. Well-structured with balance. Lingering aftertaste. 92p.
Chateau Margaux
Philippe Bascaules, managing director of the property, was kind to prepare the 2023 and 2022 vintages of Grand Vin, Pavillon Rouge de Margaux, and Pavillon Blanc de Margaux. Totally impressive wines!
2023 Pavillon Rouge de Margaux - 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc and 5 % Petit Verdot. 14.1% alcohol. There is more Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend and less Merlot than in 2022. One might expect a powerful, tight wine, but it is not. It follows the vintage's pattern with tenderness, elegance, and finesse. Fine acidity, midpalate, and complexity fulfill this excellent wine. 94p.
2023 Château Margaux — 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. 13% alcohol. Only 41% of the harvest went into Grand Vin. It is a true candidate to be the wine of the vintage! It is an immensely sophisticated, elegant wine full of grace and finesse, with fabulous complexity, mid-palate, and cashmere-like texture. The aftertaste lasts more than one minute. 99-100p.
2022 Pavillon Rouge de Margaux - 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot. 14.8% alcohol. 25 hl/ha. Powerful with a strong backbone, very concentrated with intense black fruit. The palate has a thick texture and excellent mid-palate. Vibrant. Tannins have a slight dryness. Long meaty aftertaste. Excellent effort. 94p.
2022 Château Margaux - 92% Cabernet. Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. No Petit Verdot in the blend. 13.1% alcohol. Cabernet Sauvignon grapes were tiny in 2022. Only 40 % of the harvest went into Grand Vin. Plenty of concentrated blackcurrants and an intense aroma of tobacco leaves and graphite. Precise, focused, vibrant, of exceptional complexity, and sophisticated. Monumental finish. A legend! 100p.
2023 Pavillon Blanc de Margaux - 100 % sauvignon blanc. It displays a great intensity of green apple, pear, and pineapple aromas. Well-integrated acidity, crisp and vibrant with tension and complexity. Caressing finish with a hint of lemon. Impressive for the vintage. 95p.
2022 Pavillon Blanc de Margaux - 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Intense nose of sweet grapefruit, apricot, and citrus, mineral, and with bright acidity. Crisp, complex, and vibrant on the palate. Impressive effort. 94p.
Wednesday, the 22nd of October
J.P. Moueix
I tasted a range of wines from the 2022 vintage, and they were as impressive from the bottle as when tasted from barrel.
Lafleur Gazin - 100% Merlot. Crunchy black cherries and raspberries on the nose, lush, silky fruit and tannin on the palate, mineral, velvety structure, seductive, lingering finish. Fine quality. 93p.
Lagrange - 100% Merlot. Fresh, flowery, aromatic. Spicy raspberries and morello cherries. Nice intensity, structure, and length on the palate. Delicate fruity finish. Attractive stuff. 91-92p.
Latour-a-Pomerol - 100% Merlot. Fragrant raspberries and violets. It is well-knit on the palate with fine balance. Lively with crunchy fruit and grainy tannin. Persistent aftertaste. Fine quality. 92-93p.
Hosanna - 74% Merlot + 26% Cabernet Franc. Fresh, fleshy, intense raspberries and garden strawberries, superb balance, lively, complex, fine structure, midpalate, and persistent finish. Great effort for the vintage. 96p.
La Fleur Petrus – 96.5% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 0.5% Petit Verdot. Crushed cherries and blueberries, violets and dark chocolate, chewy, vibrant, and creamy on the palate, with great complexity and length, and a lingering finish. Excellent effort for the vintage. 97-98p.
Trotanoy - 96% Merlot + 4% Cabernet Franc. 14.7% alcohol. Dense color, multidimensional nose of violets, black cherries, dark chocolate, black winter truffle, tight and chewy, great midpalate, and length. Strong mineral finish. Outstanding effort. 98-100p.
Belair Monange - 99% Merlot + 1% Cabernet Franc. Intense cherries and violets, vibrant and sappy on the palate, great complexity and length, finesse, velvety tannin, and a long, lingering finish. Exceptional for the vintage. 98-99p.
Bourgneuf
This property is a must-visit for me every time I come to Bordeaux. Wines here are reasonably priced, and you get splendid quality and more for your money. You get a warm reception, too.
2024 - we have here an aromatic, sappy, gentle, and elegant wine with finesse and velvety tannin. It's understandably slightly lighter than usual. Discreet acidity and oak work well with silky fruit. Lingering aftertaste. It is a fine effort for the vintage from the property, where the winemaker hasn’t put a foot wrong since she started making wine in 2008! 93+p.
2023 – 90% Merlot + 10% Cabernet Franc. This wine is beautifully scented and intense on the nose, with black cherries, blueberries, violets, and black truffles. It has a broad aromatic palette. It is opulent and coated on the palate with finesse, vibrancy, great complexity and structure, a splendid midpalate, silky tannin, and a lingering finish. Stupendous effort. 96p.
2022 - 85% Merlot + 15% Cabernet Franc. Aromatic and creamy, corpulent with mineral notes, grained tannin, juicy, vibrant, powerful structure, and persistent finish. It further impresses with a stunning midpalate and a long, persistent finish. It's an excellent effort, no less! 96p.
2015 – it has a great nose of spicy wild cherries with notes of truffles. This is a dense and tight wine with a strong backbone, excellent complexity, and a long finish. Great effort for the vintage. 94+p.
At Bourgneuf, the 2025 harvest finished on the 4th of September, which was one day earlier than the 2022 harvest. Speaking of 2025, Frederique Vayron, the winemaker, told me that she had great hopes for this vintage. Small and very concentrated grapes.
Petrus
I was thrilled to have the possibility to taste the bottled 2022 vintage at the property while in Bordeaux in late October 2025. Thanks a lot, Olivier Berrouet, for your generosity!
The 2022 Petrus is made from 100% Merlot, with an alcohol by volume (ABV) of 14.5% and a yield of 20 hectoliters per hectare. The harvest occurred between September 1st and 7th. This wine can be described as a "wolf in sheep's clothing." Its texture is reminiscent of liquid cashmere, featuring loads of creamy fruit and velvety tannins. It is incredibly complex and sophisticated, with an utterly impressive mid-palate and an endless finish. This wine is truly a legend in the making! 100p.
L'If
I had lunch with Jacques Thienpont at the cozy restaurant Les Jardins de Soutard in Saint-Émilion to celebrate over 40 years of our friendship; I first met him at Le Pin in September 1985. Before lunch, we visited his other property, L’If, which is located near Troplong Mondot. For our meal, he brought a bottle of 2019 L’If. It was an excellent wine, showcasing intense notes of morello cherries and wild raspberries on the nose. On the palate, it showed creamy, sweet berry flavors and velvety tannins, along with great structure, complexity, and a long, lush finish. 95p
We also had a white wine made by his cousin, Nicolas Thienpont, 2018 Puygueraud from Francs, Cotes de Bordeaux. Fresh with notes of apple and grapefruit on the nose, crisp palate, well-defined acidity, and lemony aftertaste. 92p.
He told me that at Le Pin, the 2025 vintage production is 15 hl/ha, which is half the normal yield. This vintage promises a lot, he said.
In the vinification cellar of L'If
Beauséjour
I absolutely love visiting Beauséjour. The wines from this estate possess a unique style that reminds me of the top Burgundy wines, making them simply irresistible to me.
The view over Saint-Émilion from Beauséjour is magnificent, and the vineyard itself is worth exploring, with its vines beautifully planted on limestone terraces.
During my visit in October 2025, I had the pleasure of tasting both the 2023 and 2022 vintages. The 2023 vintage is a heavenly delight, I must say. This wine is a blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc, with an alcohol content of 14%. Its nose is incredibly expressive and fragrant, showcasing scents of black cherries, violets, and iris. On the palate, it is pure, graceful, elegant, and sophisticated. It has a sensual quality, marked by precise fruit flavors and velvety tannins, complemented by excellent acidity. The finish is long and mesmerizing, leaving you wanting more. This wine deserves a rating of 99- 100 points.
In contrast, the 2022 vintage exhibits more power and a tighter structure than the 2023 vintage. With an alcohol content of nearly 15%, the high ABV is remarkably well-integrated and not noticeable. This vintage features a blend of 69% Merlot and 31% Cabernet Franc. I find the aromas in the 2022 vintage to be spicier, with more pronounced acidity and robust tannins compared to the 2023. However, the complexity, mid-palate, and finish remain similar to those of the 2023 vintage. I rate it 98- 99 points.
It will be interesting and enjoyable to follow the future development of both wines!
Joséphine Duffau-Lagarrose has every reason to smile! Fantastic 2023 and 2022!
Ausone
This property has been producing utterly remarkable wines since Alain Vauthier took full control in 1995. The exceptional soil, composed of chalk and limestone, contributes significantly to the wines' extremely high quality. Here, Cabernet Franc makes up 50% of the blend. During my visit to the property in late October 2025, I had the opportunity to taste Ausone in vintages 2022, 2015, and 2009. I also tasted selected wines from Alain Vauthier’s other properties: 2022 La Clotte (St. Emilion Grand Cru), 2017 Moulin St. Georges (St. Emilion Grand Cru) + the second wine of Ausone, Chapelle d’Ausone, in vintages 2015 and 2010.
2022 La Clotte - 80% Merlot + 20% Cabernet Franc. Cherry nose with notes of violets. Subtle, silky, and lively on the palate with crunchy fruit and grainy tannin. Caressing aftertaste. Well-crafted wine. 92p.
2017 Moulin St. Georges – nice aromas of morello cherries on the nose. Smooth on the palate with tasty fruit and silky tannin. Discreet acidity and sleek aftertaste. Adorable wine. 90p.
2015 Chapelle d’Ausone – it mirrors the Grand Vin pretty well, however, in a lighter version. This is a well-knit and complex wine with a big backbone and splendid depth and length. Lovely second wine. 92-93p.
2010 Chapelle d’Ausone – powerful on the nose with wild raspberries, concentrated on the palate with plenty of black fruit, strong backbone, splendid length on the palate, and smooth finish. Fine effort. 93p.
2022 Ausone - 50% Merlot + 50% Cabernet Franc. This wine moves like a giant with ballerina steps, powerful yet elegant. Sophisticated nose of black fruit and black winter truffle. Vibrant, multilayered, great acidity. Massive, refined, and sophisticated, with enormous depth and density. A long aftertaste that won’t end. Future wine legend for sure. 99-100p.
2015 Ausone – awesomely scented nose of forest floor, wild black cherries, and black winter truffle, seamless structure, great precision, stunningly refined and sophisticated, with fabulous complexity, and midpalate. There is a healthy dosage of oak, but it remains unobtrusive. It’s sophisticated, with a classy elegance, velvety, with fabulous balance and finish. Truly remarkable wine. 99p.
2009 Ausone – different fruit profile here with plenty of spicy raspberries and morello cherries. Sensual, fleshy, sophisticated, vibrant, mega long on the palate, and perfectly balanced. Creamy berries and silky tannins. Great midpalate and memorable aftertaste. Fabulous stuff. 98p.
Tertre Roteboeuf
I always feel tremendous excitement when I visit this cult property. I have loved wines here since my first visit in May 1987. During my visit in late October 2025, I was treated to some truly riveting wines from the 2022 and 2023 vintages.
2022 L’Aurage - Louis Mitjavile, son of Francois Mitjavile (Tertre Roteboeuf), owns this property in Castillon and makes wine here. It had a seductive fragrance of roses and cherries, notes of milk chocolate, silky fruit, and tannin, smooth and tasty. It's a very catchy and attractive wine. 92p.
2022 Domaine de Cambes – fragrant black cherries, velvety texture, crunchy fruit, velvety tannin, and lush finish. Beautiful stuff. 91p.
2022 Roc de Cambes - powerful on the nose with cherries and raspberries, spicy, discreet oak, vibrant on the palate, Splendid mid-palate, great structure, and long-lasting finish. Sublime stuff. 94p.
2022 Tertre Roteboeuf – this wine has an intense nose of black and red berries, a broad palate of flavors and complexity, and an excellent mid-palate. It is seamless, with silky berries, grainy tannin, a sophisticated touch, and a long, caressing finish. A true dream wine! 98+p.
2023 L’Aurage – this wine displays fragrant roses/rose bushes, ripe raspberries, silky fruit, and tannin. Elegant, smooth, and tasty. Has taken on weight and concentration during ageing in barrels. An attractive effort. 92p.
2023 Domaine des Cambes – who can resist this wine? It’s coming from the vines growing on the banks of the Garonne River, just outside the Cotes de Bourg appellation. Just after these vines, in the valley, you have Roc de Cambes vineyard! Very aromatic black cherries wrapped in milk chocolate. Silky texture. Velvety tannins are hidden by creamy fruit. Lush finish. 91p.
2023 Roc des Cambes - it is intense on the nose, with morello cherries and spicy raspberries. Powerful structure, fine acidity, and discreet oak flavors on the palate. Fine mid-palate and persistent aftertaste. Sublime wine. 94p.
2023 Tertre Roteboeuf – this wine is true poetry. Francois Mitjaville has crafted an iconic wine with a powerful nose of black cherries and violets. The palate is rich, silky, seductive, and has excellent complexity, a sophisticated touch, a fabulous midpalate, and seamless structure. The finish is long and caressing. 98-99p.
Thursday, the 23rd of October
Latour
Hélène Genin, Latour’s technical director and winemaker, prepared two exciting wines for tasting: Grand Vin from the 2022 and 2019 vintages. It was my first “meeting” with those two vintages.
2022 – 92.45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7.4% Merlot, and 0.15% Petit Verdot. 14.19% ABV. It displays an intense nose of fully ripe Cabernet Sauvignon with notes of tobacco leaf, forest floor, and graphite. Plenty of blackcurrants and wild raspberries with a distinct spiciness. It is a powerfully structured wine with a strong backbone. There is a remarkable acidity, midpalate, and length. Rich and multidimensional. This wine is a "vin de garde," meaning it will require at least 10 years for all its components to integrate fully. Exceptional stuff. 99-100p.
2019 – 92.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7.5% Merlot. 14.1% ABV. It’s different from 2022 with sweeter fruit and softer tannins, a dash of elegance and finesse, but still with a compelling presence. Loads of blackcurrants and notes of leather, cedar, and black winter truffle on the nose. Vibrant and refined. Excellent midpalate, complexity, depth, and long-lasting aftertaste. Stupendous effort. 98-99p.
Hélène Genin expressed her excitement about the excellent quality of the grapes during the 2025 harvest. She explained that grapes were small, resulting in a low yield. This vintage promises a lot, she said.
Lafite
It was a great visit, and I was welcomed by Eric Kohler, the property's technical director. Later, we were joined by Saskia de Rothschild, the general director of Domaines de Rothschild.
2023 Duhart Milon - 80% Cabernet Sauvignon + 20% Merlot. 13.1% alcohol. There are plenty of crushed blackcurrants and cherries on the nose. Potent, sappy, firm structure, strong backbone, fatty tannin, splendid complexity, long aftertaste. Well-crafted wine. 93p.
2023 Carruades de Lafite - 60% Cabernet. Sauvignon + 40% Merlot. 13.2% alcohol. There are plenty of blackcurrants and notes of graphite and leather, concentrated and lively on the palate, with a strong backbone, bright acidity, and a persistent finish. Super second wine. 94p.
2023 Lafite - 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot. 13.2% alcohol. It is rawer and oakier than in recent vintages, but remains multi-dimensional and sophisticated, with excellent mid-palate, perfect acidity, and a remarkably long aftertaste. Fabulous stuff. 98-99p.
2020 Duhart Milon - 80% Cabernet Sauvignon + 20% Merlot. 12.5% alcohol. Spicy black and redcurrants, graphite and forest floor, sappy and complex with fine acidity and velvety texture. Lingering finish. Fine effort. 92-93p.
2020 Lafite - 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot, 12.8% alcohol. This wine is the epitome of elegance and finesse. It has a very classy, sophisticated nose of tobacco and black truffle, and a cashmere-clad palate with vibrancy and great depth. Multidimensional, with a great midpalate and a mega-long finish. This was two months ago in Copenhagen. At the property, it was quite closed when I tasted it. 98p.
Gruaud Larose
Adrien Planas, the property’s sales manager, arranged a tasting of Gruaud Larose in vintages 2022, 2021, and 2020, and Rabaud Promis from Sauternes in 2023 and 2022.
2022 Gruaud Larose – 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, and 3% Petit Verdot, 13.5% alcohol. Intense blackcurrants on the nose, juicy and well-composed on the palate with tension, discreet oak, superb structure, and complexity. It's a long and meaty finish. Superb effort. 95p.
2021 Gruaud Larose – 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc. Nice aromas of blackcurrants and cherries on the nose, with a fine palate displaying good acidity, structure, and complexity. The finish is persistent. It’s a lighter but delightful version of Grand Vin. 92-93p.
2020 Gruaud Larose – 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc. 13.18% alcohol. Tobacco leaves, black fruit, with the addition of black truffles on the nose. Aromatic, vibrant, and complex. Fine midpalate. Persistent finish. Excellent effort. 95p.
2023 Rabaud Promis – this property was purchased by the owners of Gruaud Larose in 2020. Since the 2018 vintage, this wine has been packaged in an eye-catching bottle that resembles crystal. The wine itself is a very impressive experience. Plenty of peaches and apricots, sweet pineapple and mango, remarkable finesse and elegance, rich, splendid acidity, and long, honeyed aftertaste. 95p.
2022 Rabaud Promis – acacia honey and candied pear in spades on the nose, striking sweetness and corresponding acidity on the palate, vibrant, sophisticated, finesse, lush, and aftertaste with notes of heather honey. This is a brilliant wine! 94-95p.
Mouton Rothschild
It was a great and very informative visit. Jean-Emanuel Danjoy, the technical director and head winemaker of Mouton Rothschild, conducted the tasting of several 2023s and Grand Vin 2022.
2023 d’Armailhac – 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. 13.5% alcohol. Quite aromatic with blackcurrants and redcurrants on the nose, well-knitted on the palate with fine midpalate, concentration, and length. Well-integrated oak and fine acidity. Satisfying aftertaste. Fine effort. 93p.
2023 Pastourelle de Clerc Milon – 63% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc, 2% Carmenere, and 1% Petit Verdot, 14.2% alcohol. Aromatic blueberries and blackberries on the nose, sappy, velvety texture, pleasant, gentle, and sleek on the palate, caressing finish. Catchy wine. 89p.
2023 Clerc Milon – 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot, 6.5% Cabernet Franc, 1.5% Carmenere, and 1% Petit Verdot. 13.5% alcohol. Aromatic blackcurrants and cherries, tobacco, and graphite. It is well-structured on the palate, with a solid backbone, sufficient oak, and bright acidity. Complex and long with a meaty finish. Terrific wine. 94p.
2023 Le Petit Mouton de Mouton Rothschild – 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. 13.5% alcohol. Quite aromatic with blackcurrants and redcurrants on the nose, well-knitted on the palate with fine midpalate, concentration, and length. Well-integrated oak and fine acidity. Satisfying aftertaste. Fine effort. 93p.
2023 Mouton Rothschild – 93% Cabernet Sauvignon + 7% Merlot, 13.3% alcohol. Rich and distinguished on the nose. Plenty of blackcurrants and crushed cherries spiced up with tobacco, graphite, and leather. Powerful on the palate with great structure, complexity, depth, and length. Vibrant, sophisticated, and with excellent mid-palate. Badass wine. 98-99p.
2022 Mouton Rothschild - 92% Cabernet Sauvignon + 8% Merlot, 13% alcohol. Multidimensional, tight, awesomely structured with huge depth and length. Fabulous complexity and richness. An aftertaste that won’t end. It’s a future legend for sure! 99-100p.
Beychevelle
It was the last visit of my trip, and the wines were delicious.
2024 Beaumont - aromatic, delicate red and blackcurrants, gentle, lively, balanced, ripe tannin. Charming, tasty, and smooth. Adorable and attractive wine. 89p.
2024 Amiral de Beychevelle – it’s the second wine of Beychevelle. Lighter than Grand Vin, but still gentle and silky on the palate with ripe and tasty cherries and raspberries. 90p.
2024 Beychevelle - aromatic with blackcurrants and black cherries. It is elegant and graceful, with a splendid mid-palate, vibrant and seductive, well-structured, and persistent aftertaste. Terrific effort for the vintage. 94p.
2023 Beaumont - it has attractively aromatic cherries and violets on the nose. Plush, tender, lively, well-assorted on the palate, juicy, and well-balanced. Delicate cherry finish. This wine has a nice personality. 92p.
2023 Amiral de Beychevelle – this wine reflects the Grand Vin in aromas, silkiness of fruit, and tannins, but in a lighter version, and has a shorter aftertaste. It has a velvety texture, and the acidity is perfectly incorporated. Seductive stuff. 92p.
2023 Beychevelle - it displays aromatic notes of cherries and blackcurrants on the nose, with hints of mint chocolate. On the palate, there is a splendid complexity, elegance, and finesse, bright acidity, gentle tannin, vibrancy, silky texture, and lingering finish. It's a very stylish and heartfelt wine. 95p.
2022 Beaumont - aromatic nose of black fruit and roses, lush and silky berries on the palate, ripe tannin, sappy, vibrant, fine acidity, well-balanced, and persistent finish. Characterful wine. 92p.
2022 Amiral de Beychevelle – It is a lighter version of Grand Vin, maintaining the same characteristics: aromatic, well-structured, lush, and with a lingering finish. This is a delightful effort. 92p.
2022 Beychevelle - 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot. Intense notes of blackcurrants and cherries on the nose, with mint and leather; potent on the palate, with creamy berries, excellent structure, midpalate, length, and a persistent finish. Fabulous effort. 95-96p.
