HEDONISTIC WINE, IN POMEROLS ELITE AND AMONG BORDEAUX' BEST WINES!
New look of Le Pin since summer 2011
This little gem of property is now one of the most expensive and sought after wines from Bordeaux. But before 1985, Le Pin was not well known and not that expensive.
Until September 1985, I did know anything about Le Pin’s existence, so discovery of this property was a true stroke of luck, because my visit was not even planned. When I was on my way to Cheval Blanc from Libourne, I lost my way (with a very good help from “conversation” with local dogs) by turning left after cellars of La Croix St.Georges and not continuing straight down the road from Catusseau and turning right by crossroad app. 500 m from Catusseau.
I'd to ask one of the pickers from nearby vineyard about the correct way. He sent me to a very sympathetic and smiling gentleman, who worked at the neighbouring vineyard on the rigth side. In this way, I've learned to know Jacques Thienpont from the well-known wine-merchant family Thienpont, who originates from Etikhove in Belgium. He promised me to show the way to Cheval Blanc, but at first I should taste his wine, a 1984. It tasted splendidly. Few months later, I bought Robert Parker’s book “Bordeaux” and learned quickly, which wine I learned to know!
It was Jacques’ father Marcel, who together with his brother Gérard bought Le Pin in March 1979 from heirs after a certain Mme Laubie. She had owned the property from 1924 to 1979 and in all these years, she sold the wine as nameless bulk wine to Bordeaux negociants. Jacques Thienpont, educated at wine-university in Bordeaux, became responsible for the property and wine. 1979 was the very first vintage of Le Pin with this name on the label.
There is no château here, there was only a humble farmer’s house inhabited by a couple, who took care of Le Pin, while Jacques Thienpont (who has a little négociantfirm) travelled frequently between Etikhove and Pomerol. The property’s name has always been “Le Pin” (stone pine), which refers to a big tree growing by the vineyard. Two years ago the house was demolished, cellars moved temporarily to new place and last year for primeur week, new state of art building with tasting room and cellars was open for visitors. This big tree is gone too.
Le Pin is situated in the outskirts of Catusseau, in the middle of the clayey plateau and app. 1 km south-west of Vieux Château Certan. The surface of the soil here consists mainly of gravel mixed with a little of clay and sand, while the underground has two layers: first a blend of gravel and sand, than an app. 2.5 m deep layer of clay mixed with iron-dirt (“crasse de fer”). The soil here is very poor, due to no fertilisation during Mme Laubie’s ownership, so the roots of the vines have to search deep down in the underground and really fight in order to find nutrition.
That is why, the yield per ha here exceeds very rarely 30 hl, and this means of course that the wine gets more concentration. There was 1.25 ha to start with (1979), later came 0.3 ha (1984) with 30 years old vines situated between Vieux Château Certan and Petit Village, and in 1985 Jacques Thienpont bought for a lot of money a 0.7 ha big parcel “Domaine de Vieille École” with 70 years old vines bordering Le Pin’s vineyard. Jacques Thienpont is a god-blessed wine-maker, who tries all the time to improve his wine.
It was in 1979, that Michel Rolland and Jacques Thienpont started to do several experiments with alcoholic fermentation in barrels in Le Pin cellars, a vinification technique which has been broadly used since 2004 vintage. Soil at Le Pin is considered as hot one, which means early harvest (Le Pin is one of the first properties to start earliest) and is very vulnerable to both drought and vast quantities of rain. This means that Le Pin doesn't hit the roof in extremely hot and extremely wet vintages.
Le Pin is without exaggeration an exceptional to fantastic wine, which immediately captures the attention of a wine-lover with its incredibly tempting appearance, a very marked lusciousness and an exotic character. However, I think this exotic character has been missing since 2005 vintage, which doesn't however make Le Pin lower in quality, only that this wine became more typical Pomerol. With such small qualities for whole world it is easy to understand, why Le Pin has got the status as cult-wine, and why it is so demanded. There is so little of it, that the price for last 10+ vintages has reached astronomic heights. Not many can afford thes wine!
In April 1995, I succeeded in persuading Jacques Thienpont to come to Denmark. A little circle of wine-lovers had very rare opportunity to get taste 12 vintages of Le Pin in Copenhagen and meet the man behind the wine, Jacques Thienpont. We tasted vintages 1993, 1992, 1991, 1990, 1989, 1988, 1987, 1986, 1985, 1984, 1981 and 1979.
Le Pin 2015 wasn't presented for wine press/wine trade in April 2016 due to late malolactic fermentation of some lots.
Le Pin 2014 (barrel sample) 94p
Tasted in March 2015. Very intense nose of black fruit, good acidity, well-defined and well-composed, with splendid structure and finish. Splendid wine, but imho it lacks a bit more depth and complexity, as you would have expected from a wine at this price level. Several wines in Pomerol are better than Le Pin in this vintage, but it can possibly change, when this vintage is in the bottle.
Le Pin 2013 - whole crop was declassified due to poor quality of the grapes not up to standards of the property.
Le Pin 2012 (barrel sample) 94+p
Tasted in March 2013. Silky, velvety, very mineral, elegant with lot of finesse, subtle and refined.
Le Pin 2011 (barrel sample) 95p
Tasted in March 2012. Kinky wine with silky texture.
Le Pin 2010 (barrel sample) 97-99p
Tasted in March 2011. Sublime nose of chocolate mixed with beautiful black cherries, violets, silky palate filled with black cherries, astonishing richness, balance and structure.
Le Pin 2009 (barrel sample) 97-98p
Tasted in March 2010. This wine showed very fresh, meaty and silky texture, great intensity and concentration, sophisticated touch and stunning length. Incredibly exciting wine.
Le Pin 2008 (barrel sample) 95-96p
Tasted in March 2009. It displayed very fresh and silky texture, great finesse, sophisticated touch and stunning length. Incredibly exciting wine.
Le Pin 2007 (barrel sample) 91p
Tasted in March 2008. Aromatic, light, round and without that many nuances. A vintage which won't be mentioned in history books.
Le Pin 2006 (barrel sample) 94-95p
Tasted in April 2007. Extremely seductive and silky wine all the way. Fabulous lusciousness and breed. A huge success for the vintage.
Le Pin 2005 (barrel sample) 95-97p
Tasted in April 2006. Immensly seductive and silky wine all the way. It had fantastic sweetness of fruit and breed.
Le Pin 2003 - no Grand Vin produced.
Le Pin 1994 94p
Tasted in November 2013 against another Pomerol big gun, Lafleur. Elegant and sophisticated, surprisingly á point ripeness of the fruit (sweetness), great balance and fine aftertaste. Complete wine, rich and enchanting. Fantastic quality for the vintage.
Le Pin 1993 87p
Tasted in April 1995. Intense and nuanced. Concentrated berry-fruit with much lusciousness, exotic scent, breed and finess. Fine length and aftertaste. Will last for 8-12 years.
Le Pin 1992 82p
Tasted in April 1995. Nice aroma of wild berries with lusciousness and spices, toasted fruit, light and elegant. Dilution in concentration caused by rain is very obvious here. Jacques Thienpont refused to "save" this vintage by using new up-concentrating machines.
Le Pin 1991 86p
Tasted in April 1995. A very positive surprise with a nice concentration of luscious fruit, fine structure and complexity. Has a nice length and is a delicious mouthful.
Le Pin 1990 96p
Tasted three times - last time in December 2016. Almost black-red. Has an enormous intensity of of ripe blackcurrants and blackberries. What a depth, complexity and nuance-richness here!. Incredibly well-composed with many layers of superbly concentrated blackcurrant/blackberry fruit with lusciousness. Very long aftertaste. "Bull's eye!". Tasted in September 2015 from half bottle - not in good form, but stunning in December 2016 (rated 99p).
Le Pin 1989 95p
Tasted in April 1995. More spicy and "sweeter" version of 1990, but maybe a bit less concentrated. Just perfect. Brilliant future, which means 10-15 years' long life.
Le Pin 1988 94p
Tasted in April 1995. Very deep with a lot of chocolate and sweet fruit on the nose, what a complexity. Dense packed, compact, very concentrated with plenty of perfectly ripe and sweet fruit. Exceptional wine and what a potential it has!. Matches easily vintages 1990 and 1989.
Le Pin 1987 91p
Tasted in April 1995. Very aromatic with splendid depth and breed, long on the palate with coffee and chocolate, splendid structure, nice amount of concentrated and luscious fruit. Incredibly delicious wine for the vintage.
Le Pin 1986 93p
Tasted in April 1995. Dark red. Has a really big intensity of fruit, very obvious exotic flavour, fat and ripe tannin and a superbly concentrated berry fruit. "Thick" and with long aftertaste. Will keep for at least 10 years.
Le Pin 1985 89p
Tasted in April 1995. Has a very special aroma, something like a blend of wild cranberries and currants, elegant and finessful, light and delicat. For some reason (slightly overripe Merlot?) this wine is not typical Le Pin, and we disagreed a lot about it.
Le Pin 1984 84p
Tasted in April 1995. Fragile and elegant with a reasonable intensity of fruit. Good length and aftertaste. Just nice wine, which quite obviously reflects Merlot's ripening problem in this vintage. Drink it not later than 1997.
Le Pin 1981 93p
Tasted in April 1995. Splendid colour, dark and dense. Fabulously well-composed with much finess, incredibly attractive, ripe berries with sweetness, superbly concentrated, truffles everywhere. It is maybe Pomerol's best wine in this vintage!. Has at least 10 years' life ahead.
Le Pin 1979 82p
Tasted in April 1995. Acetone, chemical, old confiture, not entirely passé, but wine's age is obvious. Arrival of Jacques Thienpont took place in March, so there was neither time to clean up in the vineyard and cellar, nor money to buy new barrels.