A hedonistic wine from Pomerol, well-placed in Bordeaux'elite

Le Pin


 2018 29

Le Pin with new cellar and offices since summer 2011 (picture was taken in October 2015)

2018 7

Jacques Thienpont with one of his two sons

This little gem of the property is now one of the most expensive and sought after wines from Bordeaux. But before 1985, Le Pin was not well known and not that expensive.

Until September 1985, I didn't know anything about Le Pin’s existence, so the discovery of this property was a true stroke of luck because my visit was not even planned. When I was on my way to Cheval Blanc from Libourne, I lost my way (with very good help from “conversation” with local dogs) by turning left after cellars of La Croix St.Georges and not continuing straight down the road from Catusseau and turning right by crossroad app. 500 m from Catusseau.

I did ask one of the pickers from a nearby vineyard about the correct way. He sent me to a very sympathetic and smiling gentleman, who worked at the neighbouring vineyard on the right side. In this way, I've learned to know Jacques Thienpont from the well-known wine-merchant family Thienpont, who originates from Etikhove in Belgium. He promised me to show the way to Cheval Blanc, but at first, I should taste his wine, 1984. It tasted splendid. A few months later, I bought Robert Parker’s book “Bordeaux” and learned quickly, which wine I learned to know!

It was Jacques’ father Marcel, who together with his brother Gérard bought Le Pin in March 1979 from heirs after a certain Mme Laubie. She had owned the property from 1924 to 1979 and in all these years, she sold the wine as nameless bulk wine to Bordeaux wine negociants. Jacques Thienpont, educated at wine-university in Bordeaux, became responsible for the property and wine. 1979 was the very first vintage of Le Pin with this name on the label.

There is no château here, there was only a humble farmer’s house inhabited by a couple, who took care of Le Pin, while Jacques Thienpont (who has a little négociantfirm) travelled frequently between Etikhove and Pomerol. The property’s name has always been “Le Pin” (stone pine), which refers to a big tree growing by the vineyard. In 2010, the house was demolished, cellars moved temporarily to the new place and in 2011 for primeur week, a new state of the art building with a tasting room and cellars was open for visitors. This big tree was gone too.

Le Pin is situated in the outskirts of Catusseau, in the middle of the clayey plateau and app. 1 km south-west of Vieux Château Certan. The surface of the soil here consists mainly of gravel mixed with a little of clay and sand, while the underground has two layers: first, a blend of gravel and sand, then an app. 2.5 m deep layer of clay mixed with iron-dirt (“crasse de fer”). The soil here is very poor, due to no fertilisation during Mme Laubie’s ownership, so the roots of the vines have to search deep down in the underground and really fight in order to find nutrition.

That is why, the yield per ha here exceeds very rarely 30 hl, and this means of course that the wine gets more concentration. There was 1.25 ha to start with (1979), later came 0.3 ha (1984) with 30 years old vines situated between Vieux Château Certan and Petit Village, and in 1985 Jacques Thienpont bought for a lot of money a 0.7 ha big parcel “Domaine de Vieille École” with 70 years old vines bordering Le Pin’s vineyard. Jacques Thienpont is a talent-blessed wine-maker, who tries all the time to improve his wine.

It was in 1979, that Michel Rolland and Jacques Thienpont started to do several experiments with alcoholic fermentation in barrels in Le Pin cellars, a vinification technique which has been broadly used since 2004 vintage. The soil at Le Pin is considered as a hot one, which means early harvest (Le Pin is one of the first properties to start earliest) and is very vulnerable to both drought and vast quantities of rain. This means that Le Pin doesn't hit the roof in extremely hot and extremely wet vintages.

Le Pin is without exaggeration an exceptional to fantastic wine, which immediately captures the attention of a wine-lover with its incredibly tempting appearance, a very marked lusciousness and an exotic character. However, I think this exotic character has been missing since 2005 vintage, which doesn't, however, make Le Pin lower in quality, only that this wine became more typical Pomerol. In 2010, 2016 and 2018 vintage, the kinky and exotic style of Le Pin has come back!

With such small qualities for the whole world, it is easy to understand, why Le Pin has got the status as cult-wine, and why it is so demanded. There is so little of it, that the price for last 10+ vintages has reached astronomic heights. Not many can afford this wine!

In April 1995, I succeeded in persuading Jacques Thienpont to come to Denmark. A little circle of wine-lovers had a very rare opportunity to get taste 12 vintages of Le Pin in Copenhagen and meet the man behind the wine, Jacques Thienpont. We tasted vintages 1993, 1992, 1991, 1990, 1989, 1988, 1987, 1986, 1985, 1984, 1981 and 1979.


Le Pin 2018 (barrel sample) 98-99p

Tasted in April 2019. Dense and massive, yet elegant and sophisticated, meaty and long. finesse and kinky style. Awesome stuff! Jacques Thienpont considers 2018 to be a mix of vintages 2015 and 2016. 14.5% alcohol. 100% Merlot.

Le Pin 2017 (barrel sample) 98-99p

Tasted in April 2018. This barrel sample was creamy to a great extent, sophisticated, elegant, with fabulous structure and complexity. 100% Merlot. Top, top quality in 2017 for an awful lot of money, but if you can afford it, you will be thrilled! 

Le Pin 2016 (barrel sample) 98-100p

Tasted twice - last time in October 2017. Awesome wine here, 100% Merlot, low yield per ha (only 28 hl!), would have liked to compare it to 2015, but it wasn't possible as 2015 was resting in vats for upcoming bottling. A very distinguished, refined, rich, velvety wine with stunning complexity and depth Btw, 2016 was the first vintage at the property to be harvested in October (4th-8th)!

Le Pin 2015 94+p 

Tasted in October 2017. 2015 wasn't quite up to 2016, another style, more red fruit and barely that noble and kinky as 2016.Still, it's splendid wine in terms of quality.

Le Pin 2014 (barrel sample) 94p

Tasted in March 2015. Very intense nose of black fruit, good acidity, well-defined and well-composed, with splendid structure and finish. Splendid wine, but imho it lacks a bit more depth and complexity, as you would have expected from a wine at this price level. Several wines in Pomerol are better than Le Pin in this vintage, but it can possibly change when this vintage is in the bottle.

Le Pin 2013 - the whole crop was declassified due to poor quality of the grapes not being up to standards of the property.

Le Pin 2012 (barrel sample) 94+p

Tasted in March 2013. Silky, velvety, very mineral, elegant with a lot of finesse, subtle and refined.

Le Pin 2011 (barrel sample) 95p

Tasted in March 2012. Kinky wine with a silky texture.

Le Pin 2010 (barrel sample) 97-99p

Tasted in March 2011. A sublime nose of chocolate mixed with beautiful black cherries, violets, silky palate filled with black cherries, astonishing richness, balance and structure.

Le Pin 2009 (barrel sample) 97-98p

Tasted in March 2010. This wine showed very fresh, meaty and silky texture, great intensity and concentration, sophisticated touch and stunning length. Incredibly exciting wine. 

Le Pin 2008 (barrel sample) 95-96p

Tasted in March 2009. It displayed very fresh and silky texture, great finesse, sophisticated touch and stunning length. Incredibly exciting wine.

Le Pin 2007 (barrel sample) 91p

Tasted in March 2008. Aromatic, light, round and without that many nuances. A vintage which won't be mentioned in history books.

Le Pin 2006 (barrel sample) 94-95p

Tasted in April 2007. Extremely seductive and silky wine all the way. Fabulous lusciousness and breed. A huge success for the vintage.

Le Pin 2005 (barrel sample) 95-97p

Tasted in April 2006. Immensely seductive and silky wine all the way. It had a fantastic sweetness of fruit and breed.

Le Pin 2003 - no Grand Vin produced.

Le Pin 1994 94p

Tasted in November 2013 against another Pomerol big gun, Lafleur. Elegant and sophisticated, surprisingly á point ripeness of the fruit (sweetness), great balance and fine aftertaste. A complete wine, rich and enchanting. Fantastic quality for the vintage.

Le Pin 1993 87p

Tasted in April 1995. Intense and nuanced. Concentrated berry-fruit with much lusciousness, exotic scent, breed and fitness. Fine length and aftertaste. Will last for 8-12 years.

Le Pin 1992 82p

Tasted in April 1995. Nice aroma of wild berries with lusciousness and spices, toasted fruit, light and elegant. Dilution in concentration caused by rain is very obvious here. Jacques Thienpont refused to "save" this vintage by using new up-concentrating machines.

Le Pin 1991 86p

Tasted in April 1995. A very positive surprise with a nice concentration of luscious fruit, fine structure and complexity. Has a nice length and is a delicious mouthful.

Le Pin 1990 96p

Tasted three times - last time in December 2016. Almost black-red. Has an enormous intensity of ripe blackcurrants and blackberries. What a depth, complexity and nuance-richness here!. Incredibly well-composed with many layers of superbly concentrated blackcurrant/blackberry fruit with lusciousness. Very long aftertaste. "Bull's eye!". Tasted in September 2015 from half bottle - not in good form, but stunning in December 2016 (rated 99p).

Le Pin 1989 95p

Tasted in April 1995. A more spicy and "sweeter" version of 1990, but maybe a bit less concentrated. Just perfect. Brilliant future, which means 10-15 years' long life.

Le Pin 1988 94p

Tasted in April 1995. Very deep with a lot of chocolate and sweet fruit on the nose, what a complexity. Dense packed, compact, very concentrated with plenty of perfectly ripe and sweet fruit. Exceptional wine and what a potential it has!. Matches easily vintages 1990 and 1989.

Le Pin 1987 91p

Tasted in April 1995. Very aromatic with splendid depth and breed, long on the palate with coffee and chocolate, splendid structure, nice amount of concentrated and luscious fruit. An incredibly delicious wine for the vintage.

Le Pin 1986 93p

Tasted in April 1995. Dark red. Has a really big intensity of fruit, very obvious exotic flavour, fat and ripe tannin and a superbly concentrated berry fruit. "Thick" and with a long aftertaste. Will keep for at least 10 years.

Le Pin 1985 89p

Tasted in April 1995. Has a very special aroma, something like a blend of wild cranberries and currants, elegant and with finesse, light and delicate. For some reason (slightly overripe Merlot?) this wine is not typical Le Pin, and we disagreed a lot about it.

Le Pin 1984 84p

Tasted in April 1995. Fragile and elegant with a reasonable intensity of fruit. Good length and aftertaste. Just nice wine, which quite obviously reflects Merlot's ripening problem in this vintage. Drink it not later than 1997.

Le Pin 1981 93p

Tasted in April 1995. Splendid colour, dark and dense. Fabulously well-composed with much finesse, incredibly attractive, ripe berries with sweetness, superbly concentrated, truffles everywhere. It is maybe Pomerol's best wine in this vintage!. Has at least 10 years' life ahead.

Le Pin 1979 82p

Tasted in April 1995. Acetone, chemical, old confiture, not entirely passé, but wine's age is obvious. The arrival of Jacques Thienpont took place in March, so there was neither time to clean up in the vineyard and cellar, nor money to buy new barrels.


Latest news

I'll be visiting Bordeaux next month (November) after two years of absence. 12 days in Bordeaux and some incredibly interesting visits have been arranged!

1. A full report on the 2020 vintage tasted from the barrel is now available with approximately 500 tasted samples. (since June 2021).  Please check out chapter "2020 FROM BARREL" in "VINTAGES".

2. A full report on the 2018 vintage in the bottle is available with approximately 500 tasted wines (since April 2021). Please check out chapter "2018 IN BOTTLE" in "VINTAGES".

3. A full report on the 2019 vintage tasted from the barrel (300+ tasted samples) is available (July 2020). Please check out chapter "2019" in "VINTAGES".

The planned addition of a property profile during winter 2021/2022 is Angelus.

The Burgundy blog in the News chapter is a new feature, which includes impressions from tastings/tasting dinners attended since November 2018. It will also include impressions on tasted wines from Beaujolais' best winegrowers. Believe me that Beaujolais Crus are in the spotlight right now because of incredibly ambitious owners/winemakers! I recently came across some terrific Beaujolais wines and will go deeper into exploring this wine area in January and February 2022.

In addition to my website, I also post tasting notes to a well-driven and hugely-scaled website, www.tastingbook.com, where I have 9.300+ followers and 2.600+ TNs by ultimo October 2021.