Le Pin with new cellar and offices since the summer of 2011 (this picture was taken in October 2015)
Jacques Thienpont with one of his two sons
This little property gem is now one of Bordeaux's most expensive and sought-after wines. But before 1985, Le Pin was not well known and not that expensive.
In September 1985, I knew very little about Le Pin's existence, so discovering this property was a stroke of luck because my visit was not even planned. When I was on my way to Cheval Blanc from Libourne, I lost my way (with excellent help from a "conversation" with local dogs) by turning left after the cellars of La Croix St. Georges, and not continuing straight down the road from Catusseau, and turning right at the crossroad approximately 500 m from Catusseau.
I asked one of the harvesters from a nearby vineyard about the correct way, and he directed me to a very sympathetic, smiling gentleman who worked at the neighboring vineyard on the right. In this way, I've learned to know Jacques Thienpont from the well-known wine-merchant family Thienpont, who originates from Etikhove in Belgium. He promised to show me the way to Cheval Blanc, but I should first taste his wine, 1984. It tasted splendid. A few months later, I bought Robert Parker's book "Bordeaux" and quickly learned which wine I tasted!!
Jacques' father, Marcel, and his brother Gérard bought Le Pin in March 1979 from the heirs of a certain Mme Laubie. She owned the property from 1924 to 1979, and throughout that period she sold the wine in bulk to Bordeaux wine négociants. Jacques Thienpont, educated at a wine university in Bordeaux, became responsible for the property and wine. 1979 was the first vintage of Le Pin to bear this name on the label.
There is no château here; only a humble farmer's house inhabited by a couple who tend Le Pin, while Jacques Thienpont (who has a small negociant firm in Belgium) frequently travels between Etikhove and Pomerol. The property's name has always been "Le Pin" (stone pine), referring to a big tree growing by the vineyard. In 2010, the house was demolished; the cellars were temporarily moved to a new location; and in 2011, for primeur week, a new state-of-the-art building with a tasting room and cellars was opened to visitors. This giant tree was gone too.
Le Pin is situated on the outskirts of Catusseau, in the middle of the clayey plateau and app. 1 km southwest of Vieux Château Certan. The soil's surface here consists mainly of gravel mixed with clay and sand, while the underground has two layers: first, a blend of rock and sand, then an app. 2.5-m-deep layer of clay mixed with iron ore ("crasse de fer"). The soil here is very poor due to a lack of fertilization during Mme Laubie's ownership, so the vines' roots have to search deep in the subsoil to find nourishment.
That is why the yield per ha here rarely exceeds 30 hl, meaning the wine gets more concentration. There was 1.25 ha to start with (1979), and later came 0.3 ha (1984) with 30-year-old vines between Vieux Château Certan and Petit Village. In 1985, Jacques Thienpont bought a 0.7 ha parcel, "Domaine de Vieille École," for a lot of money, with 70-year-old vines bordering Le Pin's vineyard.
In 1979, Michel Rolland and Jacques Thienpont began experimenting with alcoholic fermentation in barrels at Le Pin's cellars. This vinification technique has been broadly used since the 2004 vintage. Le Pin's soil is considered hot, which means an early harvest (Le Pin is one of the first properties to start harvesting).
Le Pin is, without exaggeration, an exceptional to fantastic wine. It immediately captures the attention of a wine lover with its incredibly tempting appearance, distinctly luscious character, and exotic character. However, this exotic character has been missing since the 2005 vintage, which doesn't make Le Pin any lower in quality, only that this wine has become more typical of Pomerol. In the 2010, 2016, and 2018 vintages, and in the following vintages, Le Pin's kinky, exotic style has returned!
With such small quantities worldwide, it is easy to understand why Le Pin has cult status and is in such high demand. There is so little of it that the price for the last 10+ vintages has reached astronomical heights. Not many can afford this wine!
In April 1995, I persuaded Jacques Thienpont to come to Denmark. A little circle of wine lovers had a rare opportunity to taste 12 vintages of Le Pin in Copenhagen and meet the man behind the wine, Jacques Thienpont. We tasted vintages 1993, 1992, 1991, 1990, 1989, 1988, 1987, 1986, 1985, 1984, 1981, and 1979.
Since January 2022, Diana Garcia Berrouet (formerly Petit Village) has replaced Jacques Thienpont, who retired. She'll manage Le Pin and Jacques Thienpont's other property, L'If in Saint-Émilion. Guillaume Thienpont, son of Alexandre Thienpont (Vieux Chateau Certan), is the winemaker.
-----
Le Pin 2025 (barrel sample) 99p
Tasted in April 2025. 100% Merlot, 14% alcohol. It’s very expressive on the nose, with fragrant notes of morello cherries, raspberries, and violets. This wine is extremely flavorful, seductive, and sublimely built. Seamless on the palate, with vibrancy and a fabulous midpalate, filling every “corner” of your mouth with silky fruit and tannin. Top bin!
Le Pin 2024 (barrel sample) 94+p
Tasted in April 2025. 100% Merlot. 13% alcohol. This wine is aromatic, delicate, fresh, and subtle. It is less intense than usual. However, its kinky character is well preserved, and the wine offers sophistication, finesse, and grace. Fine effort for this property in this difficult vintage.
Le Pin 2023 98+p
Tasted three times - last time in April 2026. Consistent notes. 100% Merlot. 14% alcohol. It has fragrant aromas of violets and black cherries. The acidity is perfectly integrated, keeping everything in place. The tannin is barely noticeable, the structure is seamless, and there is excellent mid-palate vibrancy and a sophisticated touch. Amazing stuff.
Le Pin 2022 100p
Tasted twice - last time in October 2025. Consistent notes. 100% Merlot, 14.4% alcohol, 29 hl/ha. Violets, black cherries with grated black winter truffle, seamless structure, excellent midpalate, vibrancy, refined, and sophisticated. The texture was like liquid cashmere. Fascinating effort.
Le Pin 2021 (barrel sample) 95+p
Tasted in April 2022. 100% Merlot, 13.4% alcohol. Violets, a scent of black winter truffles. Splendid structure, excellent midpalate, vibrancy, velvety texture, and a sophisticated touch. Terrific stuff.
Le Pin 2020 (barrel sample) 99-100p
Tasted in November 2021. Great density, liquid silk or cashmere, long, sophisticated, decadent, and fantastic mid-palate. Heavenly stuff.
Le Pin 2019 99-100p
Tasted in November 2021. I'll use the exact words to describe this wine, as I did for 2020. Because it was similar to its one-year-younger brother, and the only difference was a little more kinkiness in 2019 than in 2020.
Le Pin 2018 99p
Tasted twice - last time in November 2021. Consistent notes. 100% Merlot. 14.5% alcohol. I lack words to describe this wine. So it will be a short description. Fantastic density, kinkiness, and excellent mid-palate. Liquid cashmere.
Le Pin 2017 (barrel sample) 98-99p
Tasted in April 2018. This barrel sample was creamy to a great extent, sophisticated, elegant, and with excellent structure and complexity. 100% Merlot. Top-quality in 2017 for an awful lot of money, but if you can afford it, you will be thrilled!
Le Pin 2016 (barrel sample) 98-100p
Tasted twice - last time in October 2017. Awesome wine here, 100% Merlot, low yield per ha (only 28 hl!); I would have liked to compare it to 2015, but it wasn't possible as 2015 was resting in vats for the upcoming bottling. It is a distinguished, refined, rich, velvety wine with stunning complexity and depth. By the way, 2016 was the first vintage at the property to be harvested in October (4th-8th)!
Le Pin 2015 94+p
Tasted in October 2017. 2015 wasn't entirely up to 2016. It was another style, more red fruit, and barely as noble and kinky as 2016. Still, it's a splendid wine in terms of quality.
Le Pin 2014 (barrel sample) 94p
Tasted in March 2015. Very intense nose of black fruit, good acidity, well-defined and well-composed, with splendid structure and finish. It is a superb wine, but in my humble opinion, it lacks the depth and complexity you would expect at this price level. Several wines in Pomerol are better than Le Pin in this vintage, but it can change when this wine is in the bottle.
Le Pin 2013 - the entire crop was declassified due to poor-quality grapes that did not meet the property's standards.
Le Pin 2012 (barrel sample) 94+p
Tasted in March 2013. Silky, velvety, very mineral, elegant with many finesses, subtle and refined.
Le Pin 2011 (barrel sample) 95p
Tasted in March 2012. Kinky wine with a silky texture.
Le Pin 2010 (barrel sample) 97-99p
Tasted in March 2011. A sublime nose of chocolate mixed with beautiful black cherries and violets, a silky palate filled with black cherries, astonishing richness, balance, and structure.
Le Pin 2009 (barrel sample) 97-98p
I tasted this wine in March 2010. It showed a fresh, meaty, silky texture, great intensity and concentration, a sophisticated touch, and stunning length. It is a fascinating wine.
Le Pin 2008 (barrel sample) 95-96p
I tasted it in March 2009. It displayed freshness, a silky texture, great finesse and refinement, splendid complexity, and stunning length. It was a terrific wine.
Le Pin 2007 (barrel sample) 91p
Tasted in March 2008. Aromatic, light, round, and not very nuanced. It's a vintage that won't be mentioned in history books.
Le Pin 2006 (barrel sample) 94-95p
Tasted in April 2007. Extremely seductive and silky wine all the way. Fabulous lusciousness and breed. It was a massive success for the vintage.
Le Pin 2005 (barrel sample) 95-97p
Tasted in April 2006. Immensely seductive and silky all the way. It had a wonderful sweetness of fruit and complexity.
Le Pin 2003 - no Grand Vin produced.
Le Pin 1994 94p
Tasted in November 2013 against another big-name Pomerol, Lafleur. Elegant, sophisticated, surprisingly perfect fruit ripeness (sweetness), excellent balance, and delicate aftertaste. It was a complete wine, rich and enchanting. Fantastic effort for the vintage.
Le Pin 1993 87p
Tasted in April 1995. Intense and nuanced. Concentrated berry fruit with lusciousness, exotic scent, breed, and fitness. Fine length and aftertaste. It will last for 8-12 years.
Le Pin 1992 82p
Tasted in April 1995. Pleasant aroma of wild berries with lusciousness and spices, toasted fruit, light and elegant. The dilution in concentration caused by rain is very evident here. Jacques Thienpont refused to "save" this vintage using new up-concentration machines.
Le Pin 1991 86p
I tasted it in April 1995. It was a very positive surprise, with a nice concentration of luscious fruit, fine structure, and complexity. It has a nice length and is a delicious mouthful.
Le Pin 1990 96p
Tasted three times - last time in December 2016. Almost black-red. Has an enormous intensity of ripe blackcurrants and blackberries. What depth, complexity, and nuance-richness are here! Incredibly well-composed with many layers of superbly concentrated blackcurrant/blackberry fruit with lusciousness. Very long aftertaste. "Bull's eye!". Tasted in September 2015 from a half bottle - not in good form, but stunning in December 2016 (rated 99p).
Le Pin 1989 95p
Tasted in April 1995. A spicier and "sweeter" version of 1990, but maybe a bit less concentrated. Just perfect. It has a bright future, which means a 10-15-year-long life.
Le Pin 1988 94p
Tasted in April 1995. It was intense, with a lot of chocolate and sweet fruit on the nose; what a complexity. It was densely packed, with plenty of perfectly ripe fruit. Exceptional wine and what potential it has! It easily matches vintages from 1990 and 1989.
Le Pin 1987 91p
Tasted in April 1995. It is very aromatic with splendid depth and complexity, long on the palate with coffee and chocolate, splendid structure, and a nice amount of concentrated and luscious fruit. An incredibly delicious wine for the vintage.
Le Pin 1986 93p
Tasted in April 1995. Dark red. Has tremendous fruit intensity, a pronounced exotic flavor, fat, ripe tannin, and a superbly concentrated berry fruit. "Thick" and with a long aftertaste. I will keep it for at least ten years.
Le Pin 1985 89p
Tasted in April 1995. It had an atypical aroma, like a blend of wild cranberries and currants. It was elegant and light, with some finesse. For some reason (slightly overripe Merlot?), this wine was not typical of Le Pin, and we disagreed a lot about it.
Le Pin 1984 84p
Tasted in April 1995. Fragile and elegant, with moderate fruit intensity and good length and aftertaste. Just lovely wine that reflects Merlot's ripening issues in this vintage. Drink it by 1997.
Le Pin 1981 93p
Tasted in April 1995. Glorious color, dark and dense. Fabulously well-composed with much finesse, incredibly attractive, ripe berries with sweetness, superbly concentrated, truffles everywhere. It is Pomerol's best wine in this vintage! It had at least ten years of life ahead of it.
Le Pin 1979 82p
Tasted in April 1995. Acetone, chemical, old confiture, not entirely passé, but wine's age is apparent. Jacques Thienpont arrived in March 1979, so there was neither time to clean up the vineyard and cellar nor money to buy new barrels.