A fabulous Saint Estephe wine and among top wines in Bordeaux

Calon Segur

 

2019 10b 

Calon Segur is situated most north of any classified growths in Medoc. You will find it while passing Syndicat Viticole in the tiny village of Saint-Estephe on the left side of the road and while seeing the big wall on the same left side around a property, then you realize that you have just arrived at Calon Segur! 

This property is one of the oldest in Bordeaux and there's been made wine since 12th century. The man who made Calon Segur famous was Marquis de Segur who at the time owned Latour, Mouton Rothschild and Lafite. His nickname was Prince of Vines. Since the 20th century, a heart has been engraved on the label with a property name inside the heart. 

Gasqueton family had owned Calon Segur from 1894 to 2012. I have visited Calon Segur first time in 1987, meeting Mme Gasqueton husband, then it took me more than 20 years to visit the property again and it happened in April 2012. Mme Gasqueton was a quite excentric proprietor and had strict rules about making appointments. I tried to visit Calon Segur several times before April 2012 with no luck. She died in September 2011 and her heirs after a short attempt to continue to run the property decided to sell it to an insurance company, Suravenir. Extensive modernisation of wine-facilities, renovation of chateau and makeover of gardens have been planned by new owners. New vinification cellar with 70 stainless steel vats of different volume and ageing cellar has been in use since 2016 and the renovated chateau itself has been ready at the beginning of 2019.

The vineyard here on some hilly slopes covers 55 ha, whereof 45 ha is in production. The whole vineyard is in one block inside the wall. It's planted with 56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Vines are on average 22 years old. New owners want to increase the percentage of planted Cabernet Sauvignon and decrease planted percentage of Merlot in the coming years. The soil here is typical Saint-Estephe, a thick layer of gravel with big pebbles on the top and clay as subsoil. The close neighbourhood of the vineyard to the estuary of Gironde ensures perfect microclimate and keeps frost danger away. Grand Vin matures in 100% new oak for 20 months.

For sure, the quality of Calon Segur has rocketed a great deal since 2015 vintage, but it was obvious already in 2014 vintage, that big improvement was on its way. More precision, focus and care for details. Laurent Dufau (arrived in 2013) and Vincent Millet (arrived in 2006), technical director and winemaker respectively, have really been pushing this property up quality-wise. Calon Segur combines perfectly power and elegance, subtlety and strong backbone. For me, it's a typical St.Estephe wine with flair and character of the soil. It complements perfectly its two nearby competitors, Cos d'Estournel and Montrose.

Sister property, Capbern (ex. Capbern Gasqueton), a Cru Bourgeois, managed by same people is often a great value for money, especially since 2014 vintage.

 2019 46

The pretty garden behind chateau in April 2014

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Laurent Dufau (left) and Vincent Millet (right) have taken Calon Segur to the new heights

2019 472019 48

 

2019 (barrel sample) 98+p

Tasted in June 2020. 73% Cabernet Sauvignon + 14% Merlot + 12% Cabernet Franc + 1% Petit Verdot, 100% new oak. This property made a blockbuster wine in 2018 vintage and 2019 is close to that effort. As expressive but not as concentrated. There's, in my opinion, more elegance, more silkiness here and more finesse here. Stunning structure and length, sophisticated. Among the best wines in this vintage, that's for sure! 

2018 99p

Tasted three times - last time in December 2020. Consistent notes. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. The joint forces of Laurent Dufau (technical director since 2013) and Vincent Millet (manager/winemaker since 2006) seem to have produced the best vintage at Calon Segur in the last 50 years. Beautifully scented nose, distinctive, precise, focused, stylish, elegant and powerful at the same time with excellent complexity, structure and length. Once again wow! 14.9% alcohol, but it's well-covered by huge amounts of perfectly ripe fruit and tannin. Excellent acidity completes this masterpiece! Now in the bottle - tasted as extraordinary as from barrel in December 2020.

2017 (barrel sample) 96p

Tasted in April 2018. This property's been extremely consistent for a long time and its 2017 blends excellently power and elegance. Out of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon in 2017 Calon Segur, 15% are 10 years young vines. 13% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot are the remaining grape varieties used. Very potent, strong, tight, very complex and aromatic. A stylish wine with elegance.

2016 96-97p

Tasted twice - last time in April 2019. Consistent notes. 60% C.Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 18% C.Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Very fruity, stylish, with big concentration and length, great complexity, remarkable structure and length. Awesome wine.

2015 (barrel sample) 96-97p

Tasted twice - last time in April 2017. Not consistent notes.  82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. Was even better than I remember it from the barrel. Fresh, aromatic, potent, long and with persistent finish. 

2014 94p

Tasted three times - last time in April 2017. Consistent notes. Excellent fruity nose of blackberries, strong structure, splendid complexity, long finish. Impressive effort.

2013 (barrel sample) 91p

Tasted in April 2014. Aromatic, sappy, splendid structure and fine complexity, and long aftertaste. Very attractive at the time of the tasting. The question is how for long this wine will keep fine after the bottling. Weather conditions in this vintage were obviously far from perfect.

2012 (barrel sample) 92+p

Tasted in April 2013. 78% C.Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 2% C.Franc. Flowery and aromatic on the nose with silky fruit and silky tannin, elegant with finesse. Splendid grip, structure and length. Heart-breaker wine!

2011 (barrel sample) 92p

Tasted in April 2012. Tasted together with 2010 and 2009. Despite not having the ripeness, flair, concentration and depth of the aforementioned vintages, it showed good vibes with an elegant approach, good complexity and nice balance. It will only improve after bottling.

2010 (barrel sample) 95p

Tasted in April 2012. Big, bold, fat fruit and tannin, great depth and length, rich and with persistent finish. Combines perfectly power and elegance. Great future awaits!

2009 95p

Tasted twice - last time in September 2019. Consistent notes. Impressive wine with perfectly ripe fruit full of sweetness, strong and elegant at the same time, sophisticated on the palate with a long finish. This vintage was characterized by high alcohol in Bordeaux but here it's not tasteable at all, meaning perfectly integrated with fruit!!

2006 92p

Tasted in September 2018. Powerful, very much terroir of Saint-Estephe, fine complexity, acidity and length. Long and meaty finish. Splendid effort. 

1946 90p

Tasted in December 2006. Powerful, juicy, strong and quite full-bodied. A very fine effort in the context of the vintage, which is ranked low. At 60 years of age, this wine was still a great one to taste. Fine old wine.

1918 96p

Tasted in November 2018. Stand A/B. Chateau bottled. Dark colour! Elegant and gracious on the nose, strong on the palate, big acidity and long finish. Not exactly showing its age with remarkable freshness and complexity. Young and kicking! Real badass wine for a 100 years old one!

1918 7

A blast from the past

 

Latest news

ATTENTION! I'm well in the process of tasting 2018 vintage in the bottle from Bordeaux sent to my Copenhagen home. I expect to taste in all close to 500 wines. As I still am receiving samples for tasting, a full report on the vintage is scheduled to be published ultimo March/beginning of April 2021. However, TNs and comments concerning tasted wines are already available on my website. Check out chapter "2018 IN BOTTLE" in "VINTAGES".

2020 vintage in Bordeaux looks like it'll follow the trend of excellent vintages as f.i. 2016 and 2018/9. However, I don't plan to travel to Bordeaux in April 2021 for primeurs because of coronavirus, so I expect instead to get barrel samples sent to my home in Copenhagen.

TNs/ratings on 2019 Bordeaux barrel samples - see "Vintages" chapter. I received 325 samples sent from classified/non-classified properties, which I tasted during the summer of 2020.

A new feature is the Burgundy blog in the News chapter. Tasting notes from tastings and tasting dinners attended since November 2018.

In addition to my website, I also post tasting notes to a well-driven and big- scaled website, www.tastingbook.com, where I've 7.450+ followers and 2.350+ TNs by primo March 2021.