This property vinifies without use of oak. Different yes, but still one of the best sweet wines in Bordeaux

Gilette

 

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Julie Gonet-Medeville (above) runs the family business with her husband, Xavier.

Both Chateau Gilette and sister property Chateau Les Justices are seldomly mentioned in the winepress. Wine-journalists usually drive quickly through the village of Preignac to check out classified growths instead. properties. It's a pity because they would soon discover how excellent wines are made there!

Julie Gonet-Medeville had run Gilette and sister property Les Justices and her husband, Xavier Gonet (who comes from a famous family in Champagne, Gonet), since 2004, when they took over from Julie's parents, Christian & Andrée Medeville. I've known Christian and Andrée Medeville since 1987 when I first visited Gilette, and both wines hit me that hard with their excellency that I haven't recovered yet. Both are awesome wines at their level.

Julie takes care of marketing and travels abroad to spread both estates' fame, while Xavier takes care of vinification. And both do an excellent job. Julie is a thoroughly educated lawyer but left that path and decided to carry on the family tradition.

Website covering all estates owned by Julie & Xavier Medeville - http://gonet-medeville.com

Château Gilette

Medeville family has owned this property since 1710. It's situated in Preignac commune; the soil is sandy with subsoil consisting of stones embedded in clay. There is 4.5 ha of vines planted with 90% Semillon, 8% Sauvignon Blanc and 2% Muscadelle. The average age of vines is 40 years, and yield per ha varies between 9 and 15 hl, depending on the vintage.

Only must sugar content corresponding to at least 20% alcohol be further processed. Vinification is classic and traditional, but Gilette is a total break with winemaking traditions in the district when it comes to the ageing of wine. It ages 15-20 years (!) – and only in small sealed concrete vats, where all air is removed. No oak barrels here!

The purpose of this kind of ageing is that the wine doesn't get any other taste from barrels and keeps its freshness and vigour. If you are a Sauternes freak, then Gilette is a must, even if not everybody will like its "heavy" style (rich in alcohol) with fresh sweetness and energy, because some got used through the years to the "old" (in wines with quite some age) sweetness, which is to be found in traditionally made wines.

For me, Gilette is very often among the very best wines in the district, challenging the "king" d'Yquem. A superbly concentrated wine with freshness, fantastic botrytised flavours like almonds (imho the very typical flavour for Gilette), acacia honey, mandarine/mandarine peel, orange confit, peach and honey melon.

Gilette is quite expensive, but one has to understand that cost of product returns to Gilette earliest 20 years after the harvest (16 years ageing + 4 years in bottle before release) because of its specific production method.

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1997 Gilette 95p

Tasted in April 2017. This wine is the newest release from Julie and Xavier Gonet-Medeville. Twenty years in concrete vats. Tasted like honey essence, fresh and very intense, with the hallmark flavour of the property, grilled almonds, then mango and great acidity. Simply stunning!

1996 Gilette 94-95p

Tasted twice - last time in April 2019. Consistent notes. In this vintage, grapes were dried by wind (passerilage) and not by a huge attack of botrytis. It possessed very good sweetness, almond flavour, intensity and concentration, very nice acidity and length.

1990 Gilette 96-97p

Tasted twice - last time in April 2017. Consistent notes. It showed great acidity and sweetness, great concentration, great complexity, acacia honey, and a strong taste of almonds and a long finish. Very classy and refined wine!

1989 Gilette 96-97p

Tasted twice - last time in April 2013. Consistent notes. Heavy style with alcohol very present but not dominating. Extremely intense botrytised flavours of creme brulée, pineapple and molasses, great interplay between sweetness and acidity, stunning concentration and depth, very strong structure, extremely long finish. Typical of the vintage.

1988 Gilette 98p

Tasted in April 2010. Tighter, richer and more concentrated than 1986. A stunning example of Sauternes at 22 years with extraordinary freshness and vitality.

1986 Gilette 96p

Tasted three times - last time in December 2016. Consistent notes. More open than 1988, almonds again, fresh, incredibly scented on the nose and palate, sophisticated, great depth and backbone, long and velvety on the palate with the fat and robust finish. It is a heavenly treat and marvellous wine. In December 2016, it gave 1986 Yquem run for the money!

1985 Gilette 94p

Tasted three times - last time in April 2010. Consistent notes. Very honeyed and almondy flavours on the nose and palate, candied mandarine/orange/lemon peel, excellent acidity with a slight bitterness, which keeps this wine fresh and alive.

1983 Gilette 97p

Tasted four times - last time in April 2010. Consistent notes. This wine gives a 1986 run for the money and is close to 1988 in terms of depth, concentration and intensity of botrytised flavours. There are fantastic fragrances of acacia honey, almonds, apricot, candied peach, mandarins, and mango. An astonishing piece of winemaking.

1982 Gilette 90p

Tasted in April 2010. In this challenging vintage, it was a straightforward wine, significantly lighter and less rich than 1983. Very tasty wine with lovely intensity of botrytised flavours like peach, honey melon and apricot mixed with brown sugar.

1981 Gilette 92p

Tasted twice - last time in April 2010. Consistent notes. Botrytised flavours of toffée, créme brulée, intense, delicate balance between acidity and sweetness, fine length and fine caressing finish.

1979 Gilette 93p

Tasted three times - last time in April 2010. Consistent notes. The same style as 1981, but I find 1979 more powerful, richer and longer on the palate.

1975 Gilette 94p

Tasted in November 2021. It was still fresh with great sweetness and matching acidity. Almonds, orange peel, dried apricots, candied peach and heather honey. Just a terrific stickie to enjoy! 

1970 Gilette 91p

Tasted in April 2003. Spicy acacia honey, quite alcoholic, créme brulée, elegant, well-balanced. It is lighter than usual but has immediate appeal due to its roundness and soft texture.

1967 Gilette 96p

Tasted twice - last time in December 2006. Consistent notes. This vintage is one of the most famous in Sauternes, and Gilette is among top wines but not as phenomenal as d'Yquem and Climens. Almonds marinated in Grand Marnier, fresh, incredibly scented on the nose and palate, sophisticated, great depth and backbone, long and velvety on the palate with the fat and robust finish. Awesome intensity and structure. First tasted in June 1990 - hasn't changed for 16 years. What proof of ageing potential!

1937 Gilette 100p

Tasted in June 1990. One of the best sweet wines I've tasted. It was true nectar of Gods with everything sensational in this wine. I*m running out of superlatives!!

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Château Les Justices

Sister property of Gilette. The vineyard covers 8.5 ha of vines. planted with 88% Sémillon, 18% Sauvignon Blanc and 4% Muscadelle. Vines are 25 years old on average. Some decades ago, Les Justices was vinified in the same way as Gilette, but with only four years' stay in concrete vats. Nowadays, it's vinified traditionally, and ageing takes place in concrete vats for 18 months.

Les Justices is excellent value for the money and is often better in quality and consistency than several highly-priced classified growth in Sauternes & Barsac. It's 1/6 of the price of Gilette.

2016 Les Justices (barrel sample) 91p

Tasted in April 2017. A bit on the light side, elegant and with a lot of finesse. Catchy sweetness, tasty and with nice acidity.

2014 Les Justices (barrel sample) 92p

Tasted in March 2015. Strong acidity, pineapple, petrol, candied orange peel, Long finish. Splendid.

2012 Les Justices (barrel sample) 88-89p

Tasted in April 2013. Dried apricot, pineapple, almonds, lovely fruit and botrytised flavours, nice acidity, lighter than usual.

2011 Les Justices (barrel sample) 92p

Tasted in April 2013. Incredibly intense, lush, fabulous sweetness and acidity. The nose of orange/mandarin, candied pineapple. Very, very long finish. Excellent.

2010 Les Justices (barrel sample) 92-93p

Tasted in September 2011. Even more intense flavours here, more concentration and bigger length. Excellent for the vintage as well.

2009 Les Justices (barrel sample) 92p

Tasted twice - last time in October 2010. Consistent notes. Very fine botrytised flavours like acacia honey, pineapple, pear, great intensity, finesse and elegance. Great depth and length. Excellent for the vintage.

2008 Les Justices 91p

Tasted in October 2010. It resembles a lot of 2006 vintage, but maybe 2008 has more botrytised flavours and expresses more intensity.

2007 Les Justices 93p

Tasted in April 2010. More intensity here than in 2009, beautiful acidity and sweetness, long on the palate, lingering honeyed aftertaste. Great balance and richness. Formidable work in the cellar.

2006 Les Justices 91p

Tasted in April 2010. Relatively less intense and less rich on the nose and palate than in 2007. Still, it's a fine quality wine.

2005 Les Justices 93p

Tasted three times - last time in April 2010. Consistent notes. Hugely intense nose of acacia honey, mango, apricot, very honeyed on the palate, beautiful balance and acidity. Exceptional value for the money and again a stunning effort from this property.

2004 Les Justices 91p

Tasted in April 2010. A downscaled version of 2005 and like 2006, it's a fine value for the money.

2003 Les Justices 92+p

Tasted in April 2010. Atypical for the property by being thick and heavy, but no complaints from me! Brown sugar, tropical flavours (mango, guava, sweet pineapple and candied mandarine peel). Acidity is just splendid and doesn't allow the sweetness to take command here. Very intense. long and with long, fat and honeyed aftertaste. Will go excellently with heavy spiced Asian food due to its high residual sugar content.

2002 Les Justices 91p

Tasted in April 2010. It represents excellent value for the money, créme brulée, complex, rich and well-crafted. This wine makes 2002 vintage proud!

2001 Les Justices 94p

Tasted four times - last time in April 2010. Consistent notes. Fantastic nose of botrytised flavours like molasses, brown sugar, peach, acacia flower/honey and melon. Stunning richness, depth and acidity, concentration and length. The finish goes on and on. It is an angelic treat for the money and mind-blowing effort from this unclassified growth.

2000 Les Justices 89p

Tasted in April 2003. Not precisely pure botrytised flavours - the sweetness comes from wind-dried grapes. Elegant, charming, quite intense and well-structured. A lovely wine to be enjoyed while you wait for the famous vintages.

 

Latest news

1. Two weeks trip to Bordeaux in mid-April to check out the 2021 vintage from the barrel. A review of 300+ tasted barrel samples will be published soon (latest mid-June).

2. Impressions from my trip to Bordeaux in November 2021 are published. Check out chapter "2021 Bordeaux" in "VINTAGES". Additional TNs from barrel samples of 2020 vintage collected in Bordeaux accordingly are published. Please check out chapter "2020 FROM BARREL" in "VINTAGES".

3. 2019 vintage's TNs on 85 wines tasted in Bordeaux in November 2021 have been published, plus additional TNs on 120+ wines tasted in Copenhagen during Jan-March 2022. Check out chapter "2019 BARREL/BOTTLE" in "VINTAGES".

4. Tasting notes concerning the 2018 vintage on wines not previously tasted from the bottle in Bordeaux in November 2021 are published. Please check out chapter "2018 IN BOTTLE" in "VINTAGES".

5. The Burgundy blog in the News chapter is a new feature, which includes impressions from Burgundy tastings/tasting dinners attended since November 2018. It'll also have impressions on tasted wines from Beaujolais' best winegrowers.  I explored this wine area already in April 2022 when tasting Morgon Cote du Puy from five producers in vintages 2018 and 2019. A tasting of special cuveés from the same producers will follow in June 2022.

6. In addition to my website, I also post tasting notes to an excellent website run by Pekka Nuikki from Finland, www.tastingbook.com, where I have 10.850+ followers and 2.800 TNs by mid-May 2022.